Мангаиа: История и современность острова в южной части Кука

Second largest of the Cook Islands

Mangaia (traditionally known as A'ua'u Enua, which means terraced) is the most southerly of the Cook Islands and the second largest, after Rarotonga. It is a roughly circular island, with an area of , from Rarotonga. Originally heavily populated, Mangaia's population has dropped by 75% in the last 50 years, mainly due to the decline of the pineapple industry in the 1980s and a subsequent economic crisis in 1996.

Originally known as A'ua'u or A'ua'u Enua ("terraced"), the island was named Mangaia (or Mangaianui Neneva, "Mangaia monstrously great") by Tamaeu, who came to the island from Aitutaki in 1775. leading to extensive networks of caves which have been used historically as refuges and for burials. The highest point is Rangi motia, 169 m above sea level, near the centre of the island. Lake Tiriara is a body of fresh water in the south.

Excavation of the Tangatatau Rockshelter shows that Mangaia was first settled around 1000 CE. According to oral tradition, the island was not discovered, but emerged from the underworld of Avaiki already populated. It was later further settled from Rarotonga, Aitutaki, Atiu, Tonga and Tahiti. While sweet potato was likely grown as a crop earlier in the Pacific, the archaeological site at the Tangatatau Rockshelter is currently the earliest recorded location showing sweet potato cultivation in Polynesia. Initially settlement was focused on the coastal villages, but by the 16th century it had shifted inland and inter island trade had virtually disappeared. Oral histories of this era are of chiefs competing for land and status. It was visited by two more ships, one of which was possibly HMS Bounty, before the arrival of John Williams of the London Missionary Society in 1823. The last mangaia, Pangemiro, died shortly after the missionaries' arrival, and the abolition of war under Christianity effectively froze the power structure and the division of land and titles in the state they had been in 1823. The Numangatini Ariki became dominant, with the title alternating between two branches of the family. In 1946 pineapple growing was introduced and in the 1960s and 1970s Mangaia had a thriving export industry. The collapse of this industry in the 1980s and a subsequent economic crisis in 1996 has led to the island's gradual depopulation. Mangaia was severely damaged by Cyclone Trina in December 2001. The slow moving cyclone delivered eight days of heavy rain, resulting in the worst flooding in 50 years. Parts of the island were inundated with up to of water, and 95% of the taro crop and 60% of the livestock were destroyed. The resulting food shortage saw the IFRC distribute food to all of the island's residents. Due to the severity of damage caused by Trina, its name was later retired.

Mangaia is divided into six districts (Puna): Tamarua, Veitatei, Kei'a, Tava'enga, Karanga, and Ivirua. The districts are very nearly sectors meeting at the highest point near the center of the island, Rangi motia. The districts are, as on some other islands of the Southern Cook Islands, further subdivided into 38 traditional sub districts called Tapere. The capital is the village of Oneroa, on the west coast, containing about half the population. Oneroa is in fact a contiguous village area that consists of three villages: Tavaʻenga, Kaumata and Temakatea. All of Oneroa is located within Keiʻa District, including its northernmost village Tavaʻenga, which is not in Tavaʻenga district as one might assume by the name. There are three more villages, Tamarua in the south and Ivirua and Karanga in the northeast. Mangaia's population was estimated at two to three thousand by John Williams in 1823. Emigration and disease had reduced the population to 2,237 in 1867, and 1,700 in 1892. In the twentieth century its population grew, peaking at 2002 in 1,966. The decline of the pineapple industry and subsequent economic collapse has led to further emigration and caused the population to drop by 75% from its peak, to 499 in 2016. One anthropologist, Donald Marshall, described Mangain residents as "the most sexually active culture on record" prior to European contact, with men "[spending] their late teens and 20s having an average of 21 orgasms a week (more than 1,000 times a year)."

Mangaia's economy is heavily government supported, with 50% of the workforce employed by the public sector. Historically, its economy was based around agricultural production, which benefited from privileged access to the New Zealand market. The removal of this access combined with shipping interruptions destroyed the industry. Subsequent depopulation has left the island lacking in basic services, with no doctor or dentist. Current exports include eis necklaces made from the shells of the pupu snail.

The flora of Mangaia can be divided into five ecological zones. The pa tai, or coast, is dominated by coconuts, Pandanus tectorius, Barringtonia asiatica, and other scrub plants. The Rautuitui, or upland makatea, is native forest, dominated by indigenous species such as Elaeocarpus tonganus, Hernandia moerenhoutiana, and Guettarda speciosa, with coconuts, candlenuts, and Morinda citrifolia in areas near villages and tracks. The harsher parts of the makatea are covered in scrub, including pandanus and the endemic Geniostoma sykesii. The Puna (swampy lowlands) contain the island's most fertile soils, and are dominated by introduced and cultivate species such as taro, coconut, and Hibiscus tiliaceus. The Rautuanue (slopes) and maunga (mountain) are heavily modified, and covered in pineapple, coconut, scrub, ferns, and grass.

The arrival of humans caused the extinction of local wildlife. Surviving land based species include the insular flying fox, Pacific reef heron, Pacific black duck, spotless crake, mewing kingfisher, Cook reed warbler, as well as 12 species of seabirds. Introduced species include the red junglefowl, Polynesian rat, Oceania gecko and mourning gecko. The island has been designated an Important Bird Area (IBA) by BirdLife International.