Германиядағы қиын спорттық тау шағылысы

Sport climbing route in Germany

Action Directe (aksjɔ̄ diʁɛkt) is a short sport climb at the limestone Waldkopf crag in Frankenjura, Germany. When it was first climbed by German climber Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, it became the first climb in the world to have a consensus grade. efn|Some climbers have speculated whether English climber Ben Moon's 1990 ascent of the even shorter Hubble, with only 4 crux moves, was actually the world's first climb at ; Hubble was already considered the world's first
Güllich completed the first free ascent on 14 September 1991, after 11 days of working the route – spread over three weeks – and using a 16 move sequence including a direct start with a dynamic jump into a two finger pocket to redpoint it. At the 25 year anniversary of its first ascent, ten climbers who had completed the route assembled and estimated only Adler had repeated Güllich's exact 16 move sequence, and that all others had crossed slightly right to use a shorter sequence. Güllich conservatively assigned a UIAA grade of XI, which was between and Subsequent ascents would verify its grade, which has since described as the "gold standard" or "benchmark" for ; It wasn't for almost another decade, until 2001 when Chris Sharma freed the 35 metre Realization/Biographie at Céüse in France, that a higher consensus grade would be assigned. On 22 May 2020, French climber Mélissa Le Nevé made the first female free ascent and almost three decades after Güllich's original ascent was still only the 27th person to have climbed it. Two of the 27 ascents, Richard Simpson (2005), and Said Belhaj (2018), are disputed.

Action Directe is famous for its unique style, involving physically demanding dynamic moves (known as dynos in bouldering) off single finger pockets in the limestone, and in particular, a powerful initial dynamic jump start into a two finger pocket while leaning back at an extreme angle of 45 degrees. Güllich had used new intensive training techniques called plyometrics to prepare for the physical demands of the climb, and introduced the climbing world to the "campus board", which would become the new standard for future extreme climbers to build finger strength and develop more dynamic muscle strength. Repeat ascents of Hubble have verified it as being at least the world's first although Megos caveated himself by noting that grading is not an exact science, and is subject to the climber's own style. In 2022, British climber Buster Martin became only the second climber to have climbed both routes and felt that they were both 9a; he did note that being sponsored by Ben Moon might make people skeptical of his view.