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Process in winemaking

Malolactic conversion (also known as malolactic fermentation or MLF) is a process in winemaking in which tart tasting malic acid, naturally present in grape must, is converted to softer tasting lactic acid. Malolactic fermentation is most often performed as a secondary fermentation shortly after the end of the primary fermentation, but can sometimes run concurrently with it. The process is standard for most red wine production and common for some white grape varieties such as Chardonnay, where it can impart a "buttery" flavor from diacetyl, a byproduct of the reaction. The fermentation reaction is undertaken by the family of lactic acid bacteria (LAB); Oenococcus oeni, and various species of Lactobacillus and Pediococcus. Chemically, malolactic fermentation is a decarboxylation, which means carbon dioxide is liberated in the process. The primary function of all these bacteria is to convert L malic acid, one of the two major grape acids found in wine, to another type of acid, L+ lactic acid. This can occur naturally. However, in commercial winemaking, malolactic conversion typically is initiated by an inoculation of desirable bacteria, usually O. oeni. This prevents undesirable bacterial strains from producing "off" flavors. Conversely, commercial winemakers actively prevent malolactic conversion when it is not desired, such as with fruity and floral white grape varieties such as Riesling and Gewürztraminer, to maintain a more tart or acidic profile in the finished wine. Malolactic fermentation tends to create a rounder, fuller mouthfeel. Malic acid is typically associated with the taste of green apples, while lactic acid is richer and more buttery tasting. Grapes produced in cool regions tend to be high in acidity, much of which comes from the contribution of malic acid. Malolactic fermentation generally enhances the body and flavor persistence of wine, producing wines of greater palate softness. Many winemakers also feel that better integration of fruit and oak character can be achieved if malolactic fermentation occurs during the time the wine is in barrel. A wine undergoing malolactic conversion will be cloudy because of the presence of bacteria, and may have the smell of buttered popcorn, the result of the production of diacetyl. The onset of malolactic fermentation in the bottle is usually considered a wine fault, as the wine will appear to the consumer to still be fermenting (as a result of CO2 being produced). However, for early Vinho Verde production, this slight effervesce was considered a distinguishing trait, though Portuguese wine producers had to market the wine in opaque bottles because of the increase in turbidity and sediment that the "in bottle MLF" produced. Today, most Vinho Verde producers no longer follow this practice and instead complete malolactic fermentation prior to bottling with the slight sparkle being added by artificial carbonation.

Malolactic fermentation is possibly as old as the history of wine, but scientific understanding of the positive benefits of MLF and control of the process is a relatively recent development. For many centuries, winemakers noticed an "activity" that would happen in their wines stored in barrel during the warm spring months following harvest. Like primary alcoholic fermentation, this phenomenon would release carbon dioxide gas and seem to have a profound change on the wine that was not always welcomed. In 1866, Louis Pasteur, one of the pioneers of modern microbiology, isolated the first bacteria from wine and determined that all bacteria in wine were a cause for wine spoilage. While Pasteur did notice an acid reduction in wine with the lactic bacteria, he did not link that process to a consumption of malic acid by the bacteria, but rather assumed it was just tartrate precipitation. Diacetyl can be produced by the LAB through metabolism of sugar or of citric acid. While citric acid is naturally present in grapes, it is in a very small amount with most of it coming from deliberate addition by the winemaker to acidify the wine. In wine conditions that have a low redox potential (meaning it is more oxidative such as in a barrel that is not fully topped up), more citric acid will be consumed and diacetyl formed. In more reductive conditions, such as in alcoholic fermentations where yeast populations are at their peak and the wine is heavily saturated with carbon dioxide, the formation of diacetyl is much slower. The yeasts also help keep levels low by consuming diacetyl and reducing it to acetoin and butylene glycol. With wines that have excessive levels of diacetyl, some winemakers use sulfur dioxide to bind with the compound and reduce the perception of diacetyl by 30 to 60%. This binding is a reversible process and after only a few weeks aging in the bottle or tank, the high levels of diacetyl return. However, sulfur dioxide added earlier in the malolactic fermentation process limits diacetyl production by inhibiting the bacteria and limiting their activity in its entirety, including the conversion of malic to lactic acid. Several species of Pediococcus can also produce acetic acid through other pathways. Wines starting out with a high pH levels (above 3.5) stand the greatest risk of excessive acetic acid production due to the more favorable conditions for Lactobacillus and Pediococcus species. L. Kunkeei, one of the so called "ferocious Lactobacillus" species, has been known to produce 3 to 5 g/L of acetic acid in wines—levels which can easily lead to stuck fermentations.

In the late 20th century, among American winemakers, seemingly healthy fermentation were reported becoming rapidly inundated with high levels of acetic acid that overcame wine yeasts and led to stuck fermentations. While a novel species of Acetobacter or wine spoilage yeast was initially thought to be the culprit, it was eventually discovered to be several species of Lactobacillus, L. kunkeei, L. nagelii, and L. hilgardii, collectively nicknamed "ferocious" Lactobacillus for their aggressive acetic acid production, how quickly they multiply, and their high tolerance to sulfur dioxides and other microbiological controls. Ferments of high pH wines (greater than 3.5) that spent time cold soaking prior to yeast inoculations and received little to no sulfur dioxide during crushing seem to be at the most risk for "ferocious" Lactobacillus. While infection seems to be vineyard specific, currently, none of any of the implicated lactobacilli has been reported as being found on the surface of freshly harvested wine grapes.

The degradation of glycerol by some strains of LAB can yield the compound acrolein. Glycerol is a sweet tasting polyol present in all wines, but at higher levels in wines that have been infected with Botrytis cinerea. An "active aldehyde", acrolein can interact with some phenolic compounds in wine to create highly bitter tasting wines, described as amertume by Pasteur. While at least one strain of O. oeni has been shown to produce acrolein, it is more commonly found in wines that have been infected by strains of Lactobacillus and Pediococcus species such as L. brevis, L. buchneri, and P. parvulus. Acrolein taint has also shown to be more common in wines that have been fermented at high temperatures and/or made from grapes that have been harvested at high Brix levels. Heterofermenting species from the genus Lactobacillus, as well as some wild strains of O. oeni, have the potential to metabolize fructose (one of the main sugars in wine) into the sugar alcohols mannitol and (less commonly) erythritol. These are sweet tasting compounds can add sweetness to a wine where it is not desired (such as Cabernet Sauvignon). Mannitol taint, described as mannite by Pasteur, in wines is often accompanied by other wine faults, including the presence of excessive levels of acetic acid, diacetyl, lactic acid, and 2 butanol, which can contribute to a "vinegary estery" aroma. The wine may also have a slimy sheen on the surface.

In the mid 20th century, a cottony mycelium like growth began appearing in the bottles of some sweet fortified wines produced in California's Central Valley. Being fortified, these wines often had alcohol levels in excess of 20% which is usually a level that discourages growth of most spoilage organisms associated with winemaking. Nicknamed "Fresno mold" due to where it was first discovered, the culprit of this growth was determined to be L. fructivorans, a species which can be controlled by sanitation and maintaining adequate sulfur dioxide levels. Some Lactobacillus and Pediococcus species (particularly P. damnosus and P. pentosaceus) have the potential to synthesize polysaccharides that add an oily viscosity to the wine. In the case of Lactobacillus, some of these saccharides may be glucans that can be synthesized from glucose present in the wine as low as 50–100 mg/L (0.005 to 0.01% residual sugar) and afflict seemingly "dry" wines. While "ropiness" can occur in the barrel or tank, it is often observed in the wines several months after they are bottled. Wines with pH levels above 3.5 and low sulfur dioxide levels are at most risk for developing this fault. Called graisse (or "grease") by the French and les vins filant by Pasteur, this fault has been observed in apple wines and cider. It can also be potentially be caused by other spoilage microbes such as Streptococcus mucilaginous, Candida krusei, and Acetobacter rancens.

Wines infected with L. brevis, L. hilgardii, and L. fermentum have been known to occasionally develop an aroma reminiscent of rodent droppings. The aroma becomes more pronounced when the wine is rubbed between the fingers and, if consumed, can leave a long, unpleasant finish. The aroma can be very potent, detectable at a sensory threshold as low as 1.6 parts per billion (μg/l). The exact compound behind this is derivatives of the amino acid lysine created through an oxidation reaction with ethanol. While undesirable LAB species have been most commonly associated with this fault, wine infected by Brettanomyces yeast in the presence of ammonium phosphate and lysine have also been known to exhibit this fault. Sorbate is often used as a yeast inhibitor by home winemakers to stop alcoholic fermentation in the production of sweet wines. Most species of lactic acid bacteria can synthesize sorbate to produce 2 ethoxyhexa 3,5 diene which has the aroma of crushed geranium leaves.

Compared to malic and citric acids, tartaric acid is usually considered microbiologically stable. However, some species of Lactobacillus (particularly L. brevis and L. plantarum) have the potential to degrade tartaric acid in wine, reducing a wine's total acidity by 3 50%. French winemakers had long observed this phenomenon and called it tourne (meaning "turn to brown") in reference to the color change that can occur in the wine at the same time likely due to other processes at work in addition to the tartaric loss. While Lactobacillus is the most common culprit of tourne, some species of the spoilage film yeast Candida can also metabolize tartaric acid.

While the presence of ethyl carbamate is not a sensory wine fault, the compound is a suspected carcinogen which is subjected to regulation in many countries. The compound is produced from the degradation of the amino acid arginine which is present in both grape must and released in the wine through the autolysis of dead yeast cells. While the use of urea as a source of yeast assimilable nitrogen (no longer legal in most countries) was the most common cause of ethyl carbamate in wine, both O. oeni and L. buchneri have been known to produce carbamyl phosphate and citrulline which can be precursors to ethyl carbamate formation. L. hilgardii, one of the "ferocious Lactobacillus" species, has also been suspected of contributing to ethyl carbamate production. In the United States, the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau has established a voluntary target limit of ethyl carbamate in wine to less than 15 μg/L for table wines and less than 60 μg/L for dessert wines. Biogenic amines have been implicated as a potential cause of red wine headaches. In wine, histamine, cadaverine, phenylethylamine, putrescine, and tyramine have all been detected. These amines are created by the degradation of amino acids found in grape must and left over from the breakdown of dead yeast cells after fermentation. Most LAB have the potential to create biogenic amines, even some strains of O. oeni, but high levels of biogenic amines are most often associated with species from the Lactobacillus and Pediococcus genera. In the European Union, the concentration of biogenic amines in wine is beginning to be monitored, while the United States currently does not have any regulations.