Clearwater River (British Columbia)

River in British Columbia, Canada

The Clearwater River is the largest tributary of the North Thompson River, joining it at the community of Clearwater, British Columbia. The Clearwater rises from glaciers in the Cariboo Mountains and flows in a mostly southerly direction for to the North Thompson. Its entire course, except the last , is within Wells Gray Provincial Park. Its confluence with the North Thompson is protected by North Thompson River Provincial Park. There are two large lakes on the Clearwater River. Hobson Lake is long and averages wide. Clearwater Lake is long and averages wide. The Clearwater's largest tributaries are (from source to mouth) Hobson Creek, Goat Creek, Lickskillet Creek, Azure River, Falls Creek, Murtle River, Mahood River, Hemp Creek, Grouse Creek, and Spahats Creek. The river is popular for fly fishing, whitewater kayaking, whitewater rafting, hiking, and wildlife viewing.

The Overlanders expedition to the Cariboo goldfields rafted down the North Thompson River in 1862. When they arrived at the mouth of the Clearwater River, they noted its distinct clarity compared to the muddy North Thompson and named it Clear Water. In 1863, the first tourists, Lord Milton and Dr. Cheadle, traveled through the North Thompson Valley and solidified the Clearwater River name by publishing it in their journal, The Northwest Passage by Land (London, 1865). Today, the river drops directly out of Clearwater Lake over high Osprey Falls which creates hazardous boating conditions at the lake's outlet. For the next , the Clearwater races through one rapid after another and over three more waterfalls, Myanth Falls, Marcus Falls and Baileys Chute. Some of the more dramatic white water sections are Gatling Gorge, Helmcken Canyon, Sabre Tooth Rapids, Batholith Rapids, The Kettle, and Granite Canyon. The only extended section of calm water is called The Horseshoe, a long meander where the river almost inscribes a complete circle. Three mountains rise east of the Clearwater River: Battle Mountain, Trophy Mountain and Raft Mountain.

The Clearwater River supports Kokanee, Chinook salmon, Coho salmon, Sockeye salmon, Rainbow trout, Dolly varden and Mountain white fish. Several thousand Chinook, 200 Sockeye and 500 Coho spawn in the river. Baileys Chute is a good place to view the Chinook as they try to leap the falls from mid August through September. They are the largest of the Pacific salmon, weighing from 8 kg to 22 kg. Most spawn near The Horseshoe after a life cycle of four to six years. The Clearwater River was famous for its fabulous fishing starting in the 1940s. The McDiarmid family built four fishing camps along the east bank between Grouse Creek and the Mahood River. In 1950, they started construction of Trophies Lodge, named for the fish, as headquarters for this operation. During the 1950s and 1960s, they hosted many anglers who came from around the world to experience the Clearwater. The guestbook for Trophies Lodge contains distinguished names such as Vanderbilts, DuPonts, H. R. MacMillan (who came twice a year), and even semi royalty in the person of Wallis Simpson. According to Mac McDiarmid, the proprietor, fish up to four pounds were always thrown back. After the Clearwater River Road was built along the west bank, the river became easily accessible and was quickly fished out. The McDiarmids closed Trophies Lodge and their fishing camps in 1970. The Clearwater River remained almost devoid of fish for the next 30 years. An assessment in 1992 showed that the river downstream from the Mahood confluence had far fewer fish than upstream, proving the serious effect of the Clearwater River Road. In 1994, new regulations came into effect which called for catch and release, a bait ban, a single barbless hook, and no fishing prior to July 15 each year. Another 10 years passed before the fishing improved and the regulations were relaxed a little around 2015. These rules apply only to the Clearwater River downstream from Clearwater Lake.

Whitewater rafting is offered by three companies, all operating in Granite Canyon since the Clearwater River Road washout in 2020 has prevented access to the river further upstream. Interior Whitewater Expeditions has been on the river for over 25 years. Other companies are Liquid Lifestyles and Riverside Adventures. Kayaking requires expert skills for many sections of the river. Kayakers who are unfamiliar with the river should try it first at low to medium flows in July, August and September. The Clearwater River Road provides access to of the river. The run through Granite Canyon is the most exciting section. Only a few expert kayakers have gone through The Kettle, rated at 6+. Many parts of the Clearwater River between Clearwater Lake and Deer Creek, a river distance of , are accessible from the Clearwater Valley Road. Marcus Falls and Baileys Chute require a portage and Myanth Falls is rated as 4+. The Horseshoe is the longest stretch of calm water on the entire Clearwater River. Taking out at Deer Creek is critical because downstream is the start of of rapids, culminating in Gatling Gorge and Helmcken Canyon. Canoeing. The only safe section for canoeists downstream from Clearwater Lake is around The Horseshoe meander bend. There is a put in at Alice Creek and a take out at Deer Creek, both on the Clearwater Valley Road. The Clearwater River between Azure Lake and the upper end of Clearwater Lake is safe for a canoeist to go downstream, but the current is too strong to go upstream and a portage trail is available.

Many rivers that have meanders have several of them. The Clearwater River has only one meander, called The Horseshoe. See 'Geography' section above. Every major tributary to the Clearwater River has a waterfall on it. Falls Creek Falls even drops directly into the Clearwater River. 97% of the Clearwater River shoreline is protected by Wells Gray Provincial Park. There are only two private properties on the Clearwater River within Wells Gray Park. One was owned by industrialist H. R. MacMillan and was his private fishing retreat starting in 1934. He donated the property and cabin to Westminster Abbey, east of Vancouver, in 1972. The other property is owned by the Neave family. The properties consist of about 70 acres each. White Horse Bluff rises vertically from the east bank of the Clearwater River about north of Clearwater. The south side of the cliffs has a rare volcanic formation called the Rock Roses. Unlike most formations of columnar basalt which are like organ pipes, these are horizontal and the ends of the columns point out, rather like the tiles on a shower wall. Further west, the columns suddenly change direction and resemble the wall of a log house. Beside the Clearwater River at the base of White Horse Bluff, there is a natural refrigerator. The McDiarmid family operated four fishing camps along the river from 1944 to 1970. One summer, they noticed a cold draft of air blowing outward from some cracks here. They enlarged it, built some walls and were able to keep ice solid and perishable foods cold even in the summer heat, truly a luxury in the wilderness. The refrigerator is still there today (although partly fallen in) and, when measured by this writer in 2014, was 2 degrees Celsius inside. There is an abandoned donkey engine in the forest near the west bank of the Clearwater River at Marcus Falls. It can be seen from the viewpoint in late fall when leaves are off the trees, but otherwise it is not accessible. It was moved here in the winter of 1912 13 when the Canadian Northern Railway was being planned and some loggers figured they could get the contract for the Clearwater River bridge at Baileys Chute if they had a donkey on site. The 10 ton machine was skidded over the ice of Canim Lake, rafted along Mahood Lake in the spring, then winched to this location. The men had already cut 9000 cubic meters of timber when the railway was confirmed along a different route.