Введение
Тип низкой обуви без шнурков.
Slip ons are typically low, lace less shoes. The style which is most commonly seen, known as a loafer, slippers, or penny loafers in American culture, has a moccasin construction. One of the first designs was introduced in London by Wildsmith Shoes, called the Wildsmith Loafer. They began as casual shoes, but have increased in popularity to the point of being worn in America with business suits. Another design was introduced as Aurlandskoen (the Aurland Shoe) in Norway (early 20th century). A less casual, earlier type of slip on is made with side goring (sometimes called a dress loafer). Made in the same shape as lace up Oxfords, but lacking the laces, these shoes have elasticated inserts on the side which allow the shoe to be easily removed but remain snug when worn. This cut has its greatest popularity in Britain. The shoe has subsequently been marketed and sold by other London shoe firms and dubbed "the Harrow". Shoemaker Nils Gregoriusson Tveranger (1874–1953) in Aurland, Norway, introduced his first design around 1908. Tveranger obtained protection for the design. N. Tveranger obtained a diploma at the Bergen exhibition in 1910 for his "Aurland shoe". The first Aurland shoes were also made with laces and a decorative upper side similar to the brogue shoe. Colors were initially natural until approximately 1960 when they were also painted black. At age 13 Tveranger went to North America where he learned the craft of shoemaking and returned to Norway at age 20. Around 1930, Tveranger introduced a new design called the "Aurland moccasin", later renamed the "Aurland shoe". This design resembles the moccasins used by the Iroquois as well as the design of moccasin like shoes traditionally worn by locals in Aurland. A 1953 catalog listed about 10 shoe factories in the small village of Aurland. When exported to the USA the Aurland shoes were called "Norwegian Moccasins". The Norwegians began exporting them to the rest of Europe, where they were taken up by visiting Americans, and championed by the American Esquire magazine. Some photographs included with the Esquire feature were of Norwegian farmers in a cattle loafing area. The Spaulding family in New Hampshire started making shoes based on this design in the early 1930s, naming them loafers, a general term for slip on shoes which is still in use in America. In 1934, G. H. Bass (a bootmaker in Wilton, Maine) started making loafers under the name Weejuns (sounding like Norwegians). The distinctive addition was a strip of leather across the saddle with a diamond cut out. Initially only worn in the summer at home, the shoe grew in popularity in America to become a significant part of men's casual shoe wardrobe; in Europe, the style has never reached the same degree of ubiquity. The term penny loafer has uncertain beginnings. One explanation is when American prep school students in the 1950s, wishing to make a fashion statement, took to inserting a penny into the diamond shaped slit on their Weejuns. Another theory is that two pennies could be slipped into the slit, enough money to make an emergency phone call in the 1930s. This, however, is an urban legend, as pay phone calls in the USA have never been less than five cents, nor have the pay phones ever accepted pennies. Either way, the name penny loafer came to be applied to this style of slip on and has since stuck. The practice continues, especially among those who remain committed to a classic and refined but still scholarly appearance, such as lawyers. In the mid 1950s, further continental influences brought a more elegant image to light, lower cut slip ons, which moved from purely casual use to being paired with suits in the 1960s (but still only in America). In 1966, Italian designer Gucci made the further step of adding a metal strap across the front in the shape of a horse's snaffle bit. These Gucci loafers (now a general term referring to shoes of this style by any manufacturer) also spread over the Atlantic and were worn by 1970s businessmen, becoming almost a Wall Street uniform, reaching widespread use by the 1980s. At the start of the twenty first century, a revival of penny loafers, whose popularity had peaked during the mid to late 1960s and again during the early 1980s to early 1990s,
|1926
|Raymond Lewis Wildsmith was asked to create a country house shoe. Initially called the 582, now widely known as the Wildsmith Loafer. |Serrated seam and reinforced toe box. Vertical stitching on toe. |
|Aurland
|1930
|Shoemaker Nils Gregoriussen Tveranger combined the Native American moccasin with shoes worn by local fishermen, in the town of Aurland, Norway. The Aurland Moccasin was born. |Raised seam on upper, similar to moccasin. Narrow cut out on saddle. |
|Penny
|1936
|G. H. Bass of Wilton, Maine, launched a loafer called the 'Weejun' (from 'Norwegian'). It became very popular in the U. S, especially among prep school students, who legend states kept pennies in the saddle slot for pay phone calls. Hence the name 'penny loafers'. |Leather 'saddle' strap across upper, with cut out big enough to hold a penny. |
|Kilted
|1950s
|Kilties have been fashioned upon brogues and Oxfords by Scottish ghillies, kings and golfers for over 100 years. The loafer got kilted in the 1950s when Kiltie golf shoes and penny loafers were at their fashion zenith. Also popular with Mods and skinheads. |Kilt style over the vamp flap, secured by leather string or tassels. |
|Horse Bit
|1953
|Italian designer Aldo Gucci refined the lines, added a gold horse bit, and made them in black. This elevated the loafer to formal wear status. While this design was pioneered by Aldo Gucci the horse bit loafer is produced by a wide variety of shoe makers today. |Horse bit style metal link. |
|Belgian
Though originally men's shoes, some styles of loafers, such as casual tassel and penny loafers, are also worn by women. Women's loafers tend to have shorter toes and are worn with a variety of outfits from shorts, jeans, slacks, and capris to dresses and skirts.
Слипоны обычно представляют собой низкую обувь без шнурков. Наиболее распространенный стиль, известный как лоферы, тапочки или пенни-лоферы в американской культуре, имеет конструкцию мокасина. Один из первых дизайнов был представлен в Лондоне компанией Wildsmith Shoes под названием Wildsmith Loafer. Изначально это была повседневная обувь, но она приобрела такую популярность, что в Америке ее стали носить даже с деловыми костюмами. Другой дизайн был представлен в Норвегии (начало XX века) как Aurlandskoen (обувь из Орланда). Менее повседневный, более ранний тип слипонов изготавливается с боковой эластичной вставкой (иногда называемой дресс-лофером). Эти туфли имеют ту же форму, что и оксфорды со шнурками, но без самих шнурков, и оснащены эластичными вставками по бокам, которые позволяют легко надевать и снимать обувь, обеспечивая при этом плотную посадку. Этот крой наиболее популярен в Великобритании. Впоследствии обувь была выпущена другими лондонскими обувными фирмами и получила название "Harrow". Обувной мастер Нильс Грегориуссон Тверангер (1874–1953) из Орланда, Норвегия, представил свой первый дизайн около 1908 года. Тверангер запатентовал дизайн. В 1910 году Н. Тверангер получил диплом на бергенской выставке за свою "Орландскую обувь". Первые туфли Aurland также изготавливались со шнурками и декоративной верхней частью, похожей на броги. Изначально цвета были натуральными, пока примерно в 1960 году их не стали окрашивать и в черный цвет. В возрасте 13 лет Тверангер отправился в Северную Америку, где научился обувному ремеслу, а в 20 лет вернулся в Норвегию. Около 1930 года Тверангер представил новый дизайн под названием "Орландский мокасин", позже переименованный в "Орландскую обувь". Этот дизайн напоминает мокасины, которые использовали ирокезы, а также дизайн мокасиноподобной обуви, традиционно носимой местными жителями Орланда. В каталоге 1953 года было указано около 10 обувных фабрик в небольшой деревне Орланд. При экспорте в США обувь Aurland называлась "норвежскими мокасинами". Норвежцы начали экспортировать ее в остальную Европу, где ее подхватили американцы, посещавшие страну, и журнал Esquire. Некоторые фотографии, опубликованные в журнале Esquire, были сделаны с норвежскими фермерами в загоне для скота. Семья Сполдинг из Нью-Гэмпшира начала производить обувь на основе этого дизайна в начале 1930-х годов, назвав ее лоферами – общим термином для обуви, которую можно надеть без шнурков, который до сих пор используется в Америке. В 1934 году Г. Х. Басс (производитель обуви из Уилтона, штат Мэн) начал производить лоферы под названием Weejuns (звучащие как "норвежцы"). Отличительной особенностью была кожаная полоса на верхней части с вырезом в форме ромба. Изначально эту обувь носили только дома летом, но она стала популярной в Америке и заняла важное место в мужском гардеробе повседневной обуви; в Европе этот стиль так и не получил такой же распространенности. Происхождение термина "пенни-лоферы" неясно. Одна из версий гласит, что американские студенты преп-школ в 1950-х годах, стремясь заявить о своем стиле, стали вставлять пенни в ромбовидный прорезь на своих Weejuns. Другая теория заключается в том, что в прорезь можно было вставить две монеты, чего хватало на экстренный телефонный звонок в 1930-х годах. Однако это городская легенда, поскольку телефонные звонки из таксофонов в США никогда не стоили дешевле пяти центов, и таксофоны никогда не принимали пенни. В любом случае, название "пенни-лоферы" закрепилось за этим стилем обуви и с тех пор используется. Эта практика продолжается, особенно среди тех, кто придерживается классического, утонченного, но все же интеллектуального внешнего вида, например, юристов. В середине 1950-х годов дальнейшее влияние континентальной моды привело к более элегантному образу, более низкому вырезу, который в 1960-х годах перестал быть чисто повседневным и стал сочетаться с костюмами (но только в Америке). В 1966 году итальянский дизайнер Гуччи пошел еще дальше, добавив металлический ремешок на передней части в форме конского трензеля. Эти лоферы Gucci (теперь это общий термин, обозначающий обувь этого стиля любого производителя) также распространились по Атлантику и стали популярны среди бизнесменов 1970-х годов, став почти униформой Уолл-стрит и получив широкое распространение к 1980-м годам. В начале XXI века наблюдается возрождение популярности пенни-лоферов, пик популярности которых пришелся на середину-конец 1960-х годов и снова на начало 1980-х – начало 1990-х годов.
Slip ons are typically low, lace less shoes. The style which is most commonly seen, known as a loafer, slippers, or penny loafers in American culture, has a moccasin construction. One of the first designs was introduced in London by Wildsmith Shoes, called the Wildsmith Loafer. They began as casual shoes, but have increased in popularity to the point of being worn in America with business suits. Another design was introduced as Aurlandskoen (the Aurland Shoe) in Norway (early 20th century). A less casual, earlier type of slip on is made with side goring (sometimes called a dress loafer). Made in the same shape as lace up Oxfords, but lacking the laces, these shoes have elasticated inserts on the side which allow the shoe to be easily removed but remain snug when worn. This cut has its greatest popularity in Britain. The shoe has subsequently been marketed and sold by other London shoe firms and dubbed "the Harrow". Shoemaker Nils Gregoriusson Tveranger (1874–1953) in Aurland, Norway, introduced his first design around 1908. Tveranger obtained protection for the design. N. Tveranger obtained a diploma at the Bergen exhibition in 1910 for his "Aurland shoe". The first Aurland shoes were also made with laces and a decorative upper side similar to the brogue shoe. Colors were initially natural until approximately 1960 when they were also painted black. At age 13 Tveranger went to North America where he learned the craft of shoemaking and returned to Norway at age 20. Around 1930, Tveranger introduced a new design called the "Aurland moccasin", later renamed the "Aurland shoe". This design resembles the moccasins used by the Iroquois as well as the design of moccasin like shoes traditionally worn by locals in Aurland. A 1953 catalog listed about 10 shoe factories in the small village of Aurland. When exported to the USA the Aurland shoes were called "Norwegian Moccasins". The Norwegians began exporting them to the rest of Europe, where they were taken up by visiting Americans, and championed by the American Esquire magazine. Some photographs included with the Esquire feature were of Norwegian farmers in a cattle loafing area. The Spaulding family in New Hampshire started making shoes based on this design in the early 1930s, naming them loafers, a general term for slip on shoes which is still in use in America. In 1934, G. H. Bass (a bootmaker in Wilton, Maine) started making loafers under the name Weejuns (sounding like Norwegians). The distinctive addition was a strip of leather across the saddle with a diamond cut out. Initially only worn in the summer at home, the shoe grew in popularity in America to become a significant part of men's casual shoe wardrobe; in Europe, the style has never reached the same degree of ubiquity. The term penny loafer has uncertain beginnings. One explanation is when American prep school students in the 1950s, wishing to make a fashion statement, took to inserting a penny into the diamond shaped slit on their Weejuns. Another theory is that two pennies could be slipped into the slit, enough money to make an emergency phone call in the 1930s. This, however, is an urban legend, as pay phone calls in the USA have never been less than five cents, nor have the pay phones ever accepted pennies. Either way, the name penny loafer came to be applied to this style of slip on and has since stuck. The practice continues, especially among those who remain committed to a classic and refined but still scholarly appearance, such as lawyers. In the mid 1950s, further continental influences brought a more elegant image to light, lower cut slip ons, which moved from purely casual use to being paired with suits in the 1960s (but still only in America). In 1966, Italian designer Gucci made the further step of adding a metal strap across the front in the shape of a horse's snaffle bit. These Gucci loafers (now a general term referring to shoes of this style by any manufacturer) also spread over the Atlantic and were worn by 1970s businessmen, becoming almost a Wall Street uniform, reaching widespread use by the 1980s. At the start of the twenty first century, a revival of penny loafers, whose popularity had peaked during the mid to late 1960s and again during the early 1980s to early 1990s,
|1926
|Raymond Lewis Wildsmith was asked to create a country house shoe. Initially called the 582, now widely known as the Wildsmith Loafer. |Serrated seam and reinforced toe box. Vertical stitching on toe. |
|Aurland
|1930
|Shoemaker Nils Gregoriussen Tveranger combined the Native American moccasin with shoes worn by local fishermen, in the town of Aurland, Norway. The Aurland Moccasin was born. |Raised seam on upper, similar to moccasin. Narrow cut out on saddle. |
|Penny
|1936
|G. H. Bass of Wilton, Maine, launched a loafer called the 'Weejun' (from 'Norwegian'). It became very popular in the U. S, especially among prep school students, who legend states kept pennies in the saddle slot for pay phone calls. Hence the name 'penny loafers'. |Leather 'saddle' strap across upper, with cut out big enough to hold a penny. |
|Kilted
|1950s
|Kilties have been fashioned upon brogues and Oxfords by Scottish ghillies, kings and golfers for over 100 years. The loafer got kilted in the 1950s when Kiltie golf shoes and penny loafers were at their fashion zenith. Also popular with Mods and skinheads. |Kilt style over the vamp flap, secured by leather string or tassels. |
|Horse Bit
|1953
|Italian designer Aldo Gucci refined the lines, added a gold horse bit, and made them in black. This elevated the loafer to formal wear status. While this design was pioneered by Aldo Gucci the horse bit loafer is produced by a wide variety of shoe makers today. |Horse bit style metal link. |
|Belgian
Though originally men's shoes, some styles of loafers, such as casual tassel and penny loafers, are also worn by women. Women's loafers tend to have shorter toes and are worn with a variety of outfits from shorts, jeans, slacks, and capris to dresses and skirts.
Обувь с горлом
В совершенно иной эволюции, чем у лоферов, ботинки Челси были изобретены Дж. Спаркс Холлом для королевы Виктории в 1836 году. Эластичная резина позволила создать удобную обувь, сочетающую в себе удобство моделей без шнуровки и силуэт шнурованных ботинок. Их изящный женский облик вскоре был утрачен, и в Америке их стали называть "конгрес-гейтерами" и "бостонскими сапогами". Даже в Великобритании, стране их происхождения, они встречаются редко, но остаются единственным типом обуви без шнуровки, которую носят с костюмом в некоторых крайне консервативных деловых кругах Сити. Благодаря такой истории, их носят как альтернативу оксфордам: в коричневом цвете с перфорацией как загородную обувь, или в более строгих черных вариантах – с костюмами.
В популярной культуре
Майкл Джексон носил пенни-лоферы во время своих выступлений, и это стало одним из его самых узнаваемых стилей. Лунную походку, знаменитую стойку на носках и другие танцевальные движения он исполнял преимущественно в пенни-лоферах во время своих мировых турне.