Еленя-Гура: История и современность польского города в Нижней Силезии.

Place in Lower Silesian, Poland

Jelenia Góra (; Hirschberg; ) is a historic city in southwestern Poland, within the historical region of Lower Silesia. Jelenia Góra is situated in the Lower Silesian Voivodeship, close to the Karkonosze mountain range running along the Polish Czech border – ski resorts such as Karpacz and Szklarska Poręba are situated from the city. Jelenia Góra constitutes a separate urban gmina as well as being the seat of surrounding Karkonosze County (formerly Jelenia Góra County). In 2021 the population of Jelenia Góra was 77,366. The city's history dates back to as early as the 10th century, but the settlement was granted town rights under Polish rule in 1288. Jelenia Góra was founded on important trade routes linking the Holy Roman Empire and Bohemia with Eastern Europe. The region flourished as a result of trade privileges that became the basis for the establishment of weaving and mining industries during the late Middle Ages and early Renaissance periods. The Polish name Jelenia Góra was made official when the city became again part of Poland after World War II ended in 1945. In German, the city was mentioned as Hyrzberc (1281), Hyrspergk (1305), Hirssbergk (1355), and Hirsberg (1521), before eventually becoming the modern day Hirschberg. In 1927–1945, the city was known as Hirschberg im Riesengebirge. In Czech, the city is known as Jelení Hora. Its historic Czech name, which was derived from the German name, was Hiršperk. In the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, Latin names appear in different records, e. g. Mons Cervi, Cervimontia, Monscervinus, Cervigera.

Human settlement in the area dates back to prehistoric times, and cemeteries of the Lusatian culture were discovered within the city limits during archaeological excavations.

In the Early Middle Ages, the area was inhabited by the Bobrzanie, one of the old Polish tribes. In the 7th century it was part of the short lived Samo's Empire, and in around 990 it became part of the emerging Polish state under Mieszko I. The city's origins officially date back to the legendary founding of the settlement by the Polish duke Bolesław III Wrymouth of the Piast dynasty in 1108, and in 2008 the city celebrated its 900th anniversary. Jelenia Gora is also mentioned as having been used as a staging point by Bolesław III for his military campaigns against the Czechs in 1110. The original fortified hilltop gród over time developed into a sizable trading settlement, which expanded outside of the old fortifications, forming a suburb around the original settlement. The Piast gród has been preserved as an archeological site – now the Bolesław Wrymouth Hill. In 1242, Duke Bolesław II the Horned expanded the city's fortifications. In 1281, the city was given an urban charter by the Polish duke Bolko I the Strict when German settlers migrated to the region. In 1281 the settlement was first mentioned as Hyrzberc, and in 1288 in Latin as Hyrsbergensium. The city flourished in the 14th century, and became a center of crafts and trade. Weaving developed, and the citizens were exempt from tolls in trade with Wrocław and Bohemia. In 1317, the Corpus Christi Hospital was first mentioned in documents, although it possibly was founded in the 13th century. In 1345 a city council was established. In 1348 an earthquake struck the city, and Duke Bolko II the Small granted it new privileges. In 1426 and 1427 the city was invaded by the Hussites. From 1469 to 1490 it was part of Hungary and afterwards it was part of Bohemia, ruled by the Jagiellonian dynasty.

In 1502 King Vladislaus II issued a privilege extending the city's autonomy and said: "Nothing can be more beautiful than the location of Hirschberg, a beautifully built city with numerous splendid buildings, in a valley surrounded by hills on all sides, with the magnificent view of the Giant Mountains". In 1871 the town became part of the German Empire with the Prussian led unification of Germany, as one of the largest towns in the Province of Silesia. In 1882, a railway connecting the city with Kowary was opened, and in 1905 it was further expanded to Kamienna Góra. In 1891, a railway connecting the city with Piechowice was opened, and in 1902 it was further expanded to Szklarska Poręba and Harrachov. In 1889 the Deutsche Riesengebirgsverein (German Giant Mountains Club), an organization to protect the environment of the Giant Mountains and to promote tourism, was founded by Theodor Donat and 47 other dignitaries of the region.

After World War I, the town became part of the Prussian Province of Lower Silesia in 1919, and in 1922 became a separate city. On September 1, 1939, the day of the German invasion of Poland and the outbreak of World War II, Luftwaffe used the airport in Hirschberg to conduct air raids on Poland. In April 1940, the first transport of 2,000 Poles deported from Sosnowiec, Będzin and Olkusz for forced labor arrived to the city. In the city, the Germans organized 19 labor camps in which they imprisoned mainly Poles, Czechs, Frenchmen and Belgians, but also Luxembourgers, Russians, Ukrainians, Greeks, and Estonians, including women. They also established four prisoner of war camps: two for French, one for Jews from different countries and one for Soviets. French POWs organized a secret resistance movement and cooperated with Poles from other camps. There were also two subcamps of the Gross Rosen concentration camp, whose prisoners were mostly Poles and Jews from various German occupied countries, chiefly Poland, the Netherlands, Belgium and Hungary. In 1943 and 1944 there was a significant influx of Germans from the bombed German cities, and in 1944, after the crushing of the Warsaw Uprising, Poles deported from Warsaw were temporarily imprisoned there. When the Red Army captured the city, as a result of the influx of people in the last years of the war, there were 160,000 people in the city. According to the decisions of the Potsdam Conference, the city became again part of Poland, although with a Soviet installed communist regime, which stayed in power until the 1980s. It became officially known by its Polish name of Jelenia Góra, which was first recorded in 1847. All remaining German inhabitants were expelled westward in accordance with the Potsdam Agreement and Polish settlers came to the city. In the 1950s also Greeks, refugees of the Greek Civil War, settled in Jelenia Góra. A local unit of the Freedom and Independence Association was formed in 1945 by former Home Army partisans. From October 1945, the Polish underground newspaper Wolność ("Freedom") was issued and distributed in Jelenia Góra. In mid 1946, the communists carried out arrests of local resistance leaders, however, some managed to escape arrest. The communist authorities dismantled the neglected tenements around the Old Town until 1965 and destroyed the cemetery of the former German Protestant church. Since then the buildings around the market place have been reconstructed in simpler 18th century historical forms. From 1975 to 1998, it was the capital of the Jelenia Góra Voivodeship. In 1976, the city was enlarged through the incorporation of Sobieszów, Maciejowa and the spa town of Cieplice Śląskie Zdrój.

Members of Parliament (Sejm) elected from Jelenia Gora Legnica constituency in Polish parliamentary election 2011 included: Grzegorz Schetyna PO, Ewa Drozd PO, Norbert Wojnerowski PO, Zofia Czernow PO, Robert Kropiwnicki PO, Adam Lipiński PIS, Elżbieta Witek PIS, Marzena Machałek PIS, Wojciech Zubowski PIS, Ryszard Zbrzyzny SLD, Małgorzata Sekuła Szmajdzińska SLD, Henryk Kmiecik RP.

The city is located in the northern part of the Jelenia Góra Valley. From the west, the city is surrounded by mountains and foothills of Izera Mountains, north Kaczawskie Mountains, east Rudawy Janowickie Mountains and in the south Karkonosze Mountains. The center is located about east from the place where the two rivers Bóbr (Beaver River) and Kamienna (Stone River) connects.

Jelenia Góra has an oceanic climate (Köppen climate classification: Cfb) using the 3 °C (27 °F) isotherm or a humid continental climate (Köppen climate classification: Dfb) using the 0 °C (32 °F) isotherm.

The first written records from the mid sixteenth century mention a population of approximately 3.5 thousand residents. In the late eighteenth and early nineteenth century, the population was about 6,000 people, to rise up to about 20,000 in the early twentieth century. The population in 1939 increased to over 35,000. During World War II, the city's population skyrocketed, reaching 140,000, as Germany brought thousands of forced labourers and prisoners of war of various nationalities and due to an influx of refugees from German cities fleeing from Allied bombings. After the war, the city had a population of 39,000 residents, including more than 35,000 Germans. During the period 1945–1947, the German population was mostly expelled from Jelenia Góra in accordance with the Potsdam Agreement. After the creation of Jelenia Góra Voivodeship in 1975 and connection to the city surrounding towns, including Cieplice Śląskie Zdrój, Population increased to 80 thousand. In subsequent years, the city's population grew, but mainly as a result of joining other nearby villages. The population rose to 93,570 inhabitants by 1996, but after the administrative reform in 1998 and the establishment of Lower Silesia voivodeship, the population of Jelenia Gora is steadily decreasing. By December 2004 it was only 87,643, and by June 2010 it had fallen to 84,306 people. As of 2022, the city's population is 75,794.

In 1957, a broadcasting station for mediumwave radio was inaugurated in Jelenia Góra at ul. Sudecka 55. Until 1967, it used a 47 metre tall wooden tower, which may have been the only wooden radio tower built in Poland after 1945. In 1967 it was replaced by a 72 metre tall steel mast. Since the shutdown of the medium wave transmitter in 1994, this mast has been used for FM broadcasting.

Jelenia Góra has a wide range of cultural institutions, including theaters, a concert hall, and cinema and art exhibitions offices. Festivals such as the International Film Festival "Zoom Zbliżenia", International Street Theatre Festival, and the International Festival of Organ Music "Silesia Sonans" take place. The "Silesia Sonans" European Organ Music Festival takes place annually in autumn. Other cultural and entertainment events include concerts, art shows, exhibitions, fairs, and events geared for children and families. The"Silesia Sonans" Festival is particularly noteworthy. Outstanding Polish and foreign artists gather to play pieces of famous composers inside the Garrison Church. The Cyprian Norwid Theatre first opened as early as in 1904, with performance staged ceremoniously. The building was designed in the Art Nouveau style with features typical for 19th century theatre edifices. Theatre remains active to this day with new performances staged regularly. The same building features a restaurant "OldPub" with live music. Open Air Museum of the Polish Army Armament – the largest open air museum of this type in Lower Silesia. It is located on a former military unit. Since 2005 Łomnica has an open air exhibition, which presents the radar equipment from entire Poland. Lower Silesian Philharmonic in Jelenia Góra (pl) is the concert hall of the Lower Silesian Philharmonic hosts many famous artists and the Jelenia Góra symphonists give concerts in Poland and abroad, participate in international festivals accompanying known persons from the art world and also support young talents. Concerts for the local audience, regional projects and educational activity are another vital part of the Philharmonic's undertakings. Zdrojowy Animation Theatre was built between 1833 and 1836 in the neoclassical style, it can accommodate up to 270 spectators. Founded by Schaffgotsch family, one of the three puppet theaters in Lower Silesia. Currently scene belongs to the Zdrojowy Animation Theater in the Zdrojowy Park which aside from its primary activity also organizes the cultural life of Cieplice. Natural History Museum is located in the Norweski Park in Cieplice. It was built in 1909 on the basis of a draft Frognersteren restaurant situated just below Oslo. Collections are mainly based on the now defunct Schaffgotsch collection. It includes Poland's largest exhibition of birds. Jelenia Góra Cultural Center works with many events in the city (League of Rock, charity event WOŚP, September Jeleniogórski, Krokus Jazz Festival, Comedy Film Festival "Barejada", International conference on new educational techniques) also runs a number of workshops. Karkonosze Museum – The museum collects exhibits related to the history, ethnography, crafts and regional art. Particularly interesting exhibits include the largest artistic glass collection in Poland, ample 18th and 19th century glass painting collections, collections of tinwork and an ethnographic exposition – a Lusatian built wooden cottage equipped with traditional equipment used in the 18th and 19th centuries. Karkonosze Light Festival – During the Light Festival the city gains a special kind of charm owing to colorful, professionally designed illuminations. The aim of the project is to present the most modern technologies and products used to illuminate cities, while maintaining care for the environment. ZOOM – ZBLIŻENIA International Film Festival is a festival promoting independent films. The format of the competition is open, anyone willing can challenge the silver screen with their piece. Antique and curio fair for a few days in September revives Jelenia Góra commercial roots. The local fair is one of the largest in Poland, it is attended by collectors from all of Europe. At the fair, you can buy old furniture and practical items, numismatic collections, books, trinkets and plenty of other things. International street theatre Festival – In August the Jelenia Góra Town Square for a brief period transforms into a stage for incoming artistic groups. Actors are not confined by the closed space of theatre building and the unique scenery and the scale of the plays provide unforgettable thrills.

The Wojanowska gate and tower were part of the medieval defence complex that protected the road to Wojanów. Dungeons served as a prison. In 1480, the tower due to strong wind collapsed burying five people. Quickly it was rebuilt by adding the clock and the dome with a lantern, and this state has survived to this day. Coats of arms have been placed on the pillars: Prussian, Silesia, urban and inscription. In 1869, the gate was dismantled and moved to the barracks at Obrońców Pokoju street. After the renovation in 1998, returned to its former place. Located inside the medieval bastion was the St. Anne Chapel of the Wojanowska gate. In the portal above the entrance to the chapel there is an inscription: " „HonorI Magnae ChrIstI aVlae DIVae Annae ereCta”"(built for the glory of the great grandmother of Christ, St. Anna) with a hidden date of 1715. The Basilica of St. Erasmus and St. Pancratius built in the 14th century features the chapel dedicated to the Patrons of Jelenia Gora; however, it got its present form in the next century. The church was built of stone in the form of a three nave basilica topped with a tower. Even today, you can admire numerous Gothic stone details best preserved in portals and window frames. The southern portal is exceptionally rich and interesting. Two sepulchral chapels (from the 17th and 18th century) were built into the church's walls; over 20 epitaphs and tombstones from the 16th and 18th century were placed on the two chapels. The main entrance to the chapel is located on the west, on the ground floor. The interior is also Gothic, but the fittings come from Renaissance and Baroque. The incredibly rich and monumental altar from the 18th century dominates the interior. The temple also houses priceless organs from the same period made in the workshop of an Italian organ builder – Adam Casparini. The 16th century pulpit and the intarsiated (made of different wood types) choir stalls are a little older. There are also two 18th century figures on the church grounds – the Marian column is near the main entrance, and on the northern side, there is a sculpture of St. John of Nepomuk. It used to be located on one bridge over the Młynowka river; however, after it was damaged and then reconstructed in 1886, it was moved to its present place. The Exaltation of the Holy Cross Church was erected as a proof of the grace of the Catholic Emperor of Austria for the Silesian evangelicals. Under the arrangement concluded in Altranstadt after a religious war they were granted the right to build six churches in Silesia which at that time was under Austrian rule. The design of the temple was prepared by the architect, Martin Frantz of Tallinn. The construction works lasted nine years (1709–1718) and the newly built church was deceptively similar to its prototype – St. Catherine's Church in Stockholm (the work of the same designer). The structure was erected on the plan of a cross and topped with a dome. The interior was equipped with a three storey matronea which can accommodate more than two thousand members of the congregation. The railings were adorned with citations and paintings displaying scenes from the Old and New Testament. The altar together with the organ front placed over it make up an extended, beautifully adorned architectural form. The town hall is the central point of the market square. The building was erected between 1744 and 1749. The entire square is surrounded by Baroque tenement houses with arcades, which originally used to serve the merchants to sell their goods. At the beginning of the 20th century, the tenement houses near the City Hall were bought and adjoined to the town hall (the so called "Seven Houses"). Right next to the town hall there is a fountain with a sculpture of Neptune – god of the seas. The sculpture is to commemorate old trade relations with overseas lands. The Schaffgotsch family ruling vast lands around Karkonosze settled in Cieplice in 1675. Their previous seat was Chojnik Castle, burned down due to lightning strike. Their Schaffgotsch Palace's greatest ornament are the two semi circular finished porticos with richly ornamented cartouches carrying the family crest of the owners. The interiors boasts early classicistic fittings. Since 1975, the palace has been housing a branch of the Wrocław University of Technology. Jelenia Góra trams – Tram communication operated in Jelenia Góra in the years 1897–1969. Today there isn't much left of it – fragments of the tram line and a plaque can be found near town hall. One of the old tram carriages can be found by the north entrance to the town hall and serves as a souvenir kiosk (the other two trams are placed in front of the tram depot, in Wolności Street and at the bus terminal in Podgórzyn).

The first mention of warm, curative springs that gave it their name, come from 1281. The spa was then developed by the Cistercians from nearby Krzeszów in the 15th century, and since the 16th century its fame extended far beyond Silesia and managed to attract flocks of patients, Poles, Czechs, Germans and Lithuanians, including many eminent persons, such as Polish Quuen consort Marie Casimire Louise de La Grange d'Arquien, her son Prince James Louis Sobieski, and Princess Izabela Czartoryska. Modern analysis shows that water therapeutic effectiveness is due to sulphur, silicon and fluorine compounds together with the high temperature reaching 90 Celsius degrees. Therapeutic sessions used to be based mainly on baths, today a wide range of treatments in the field of hydrotherapy, inhalation therapy as well as phototherapy, physiotherapy, kinesiotherapy, and electrotherapy.

These two parks are located close to the main pedestrian street of Cieplice. Zdrojowy Park main avenue was created already in 1796, however, the entire park was created in the first half of the 19th century when the Schaffgotschs reconstructed part of the garden into an English garden and made a part of it available to the residents of Cieplice and patients. At the beginning of the 20th century, owner of paper machine factory Eugen Fülner made several investments towards the spa. One investment was creating a picturesque park, called the Norwegian Park. Norwegian Park owes its name to a wooden building erected in 1909, whose finishing resembles Viking boats. The Gallery and Zdrojowy Animation Theatre was built in 1797–1800 and designed by the architect Carl Gottlieb Geissler from Wroclaw. Inside there is still a functioning restaurant, a cigar lounge, a reading room and a large concert hall. Theatre was built between 1833 and 1836, it can accommodate up to 270 spectators. Founded by Schaffgotsch family built in the neoclassical style. Currently scene belongs to the Zdrojowy Animation Theater in the Zdrojowy Park.

Sobieszów is located along the stream of Wrzosówka and nearby is the Chojnik castle. From the fourteenth century to 1945, the village belonged to the Schaffgotsch family. Karkonosze National Park management is established in Sobieszów. Location area creates favorable conditions for starting here hiking in the Karkonosze Mountains.

Chojnik Castle – a castle located near Jelenia Góra Sobieszów on the top of the Chojnik mountain in Karkonosze Mountains. This mountain rises to a height of 627 meters above sea level, and from the southeast side is a 45 meter cliff plunging into the so called Hell Valley. The fort is located in a nature reserve, which is the exclave of Karkonosze Mountains National Park. "Chojnik Golden Bolt" Knight's crossbow tournament – Once a year the picturesque ruins of Chojnik play host to the struggles of knight fellowships. The tournament is accompanied by shows of medieval customs, dances, crafts and warfare.

Jagniątków – a district of Jelenia Góra (since 1998). From here leads many trails in the mountains, both pedestrians and cyclists. It is the highest district of Jelenia Gora, and has good communication with the city bus (lines 15 and late night course line 9). It was founded by Czech refugees in 1651.

The church was erected in the years 1980–1986. Its shape was inspired by the architecture of Podhale. Thanks to this shape the church perfectly inscribes itself into the mountainous landscape.

Jagniątkowsk Black Cauldron – glacial cauldron in the Western Sudetes in the Karkonosze Mountains and is located in south western Poland, in the Western Sudetes in the western part of the band Karkonosze Mountains, in the Karkonosze National Park, north of the Black Pass, on the north eastern slope of Śmielca and north western slope of the Czech Stones.

Owing to natural factors the Jelenia Góra Valley boasts exceptionally good conditions for gliding and hand gliding. Consequently, the Jelenia Góra airport and the local flying club enjoys much popularity among flying aficionados from Poland and abroad alike.

Jelenia Góra offers many and varied cycling routes like "Bóbr valley trail" (ER 6) or the biking ring road of Jelenia Góra, the Jelenia Góra Łomnica biking trail. City organizes biking events:
Jelenia Góra trophy – Maja Włoszczowska MTB Race – a biking race involving the top contenders of the amateurs of the world MTB scene. Bike Parade – an entertainment event propagating biking, a healthy lifestyle and active outdoor leisure. Dirt Town – bike stunts performed on the Town Hall square and a biking contest on a specially prepared obstacle course. In the years 1952–1956, 1979, 1986 and 1999–2007 by the city ran the route of Tour de Pologne, and in 2012 this event has returned to Jelenia Gora. The FISU selected Jelenia Góra to host the 2014 World University Cycling Championship.

Kayakers may admire Jelenia Góra from their favourite perspective, using the water route on the Bóbr river. More informations at PTTK site.

Majestic mountains surrounding the city, offers many great trails for visitors, including a route to the highest peak of the Karkonosze – Śnieżka 1602 meters above the sea. During the mountain expeditions, visitors can stay overnight in mountain shelters like "Strzecha Akademicka", "Samotnia", "Odrodzenie" or "Dom Śląski".