Британдық альпинист Алан Хинкестің 8000 метрлік шыңдарға қатысты жетістіктері

British Himalayan mountaineer

Alan Hinkes OBE (born 26 April 1954) is an English Himalayan high altitude mountaineer from Northallerton in North Yorkshire. He is the first British mountaineer to claim all 14 Himalayan eight thousanders (mountains above in height), which he did on 30 May 2005.

Hinkes is the first British mountaineer to claim to have summited all 14 mountains with elevations above , known as the eight thousanders, when he summited Kangchenjunga on 30 May 2005, aged 50 years and 34 days. It was first achieved by Reinhold Messner in 1986 (all without oxygen), and two decades later, Hinkes was only the 13th person to claim the feat, days after U. S. climber Ed Viesturs became the 12th person on 22 May 2005. It is a rare feat, as the ratio of deaths to summits on several eight thousanders is at one in five (Annapurna, K2, Nanga Parbat, Kangchenjunga). This should not be interpreted as meaning that a "death rate" is circa 20%, as the statistic ignores the number of attempts (and also partial attempts, and/or route stocking activity etc.). However, given that climbing the eight thousanders requires multiple failed attempts (Hinkes took two attempts on average), and the most failures are usually on the most dangerous mountains, the risk of death in attempting all 14 eight thousanders is material. Hinkes took 26 attempts to climb the 14 eight thousanders (not counting his ascent of Shishapangma Central (West) in 1990), giving a first attempt success rate of circa 54%. Hinkes spent 21 years on his "Challenge 8000", starting with his ascent of Shishapangma in 1987, and ending with his ascent of Kangchenjunga in 2005. Hinkes is recorded as summiting Mount Everest on 19 May 1996.