Корей халқының дәстүрлі киімі

Traditional Korean clothing

The hanbok (hangul=한복) is a traditional clothing of the Korean people. The term hanbok is primarily used by South Koreans; North Koreans refer to the clothes as chosŏn ot (hangul=조선옷, ). The clothes are also worn in the Korean diaspora, especially by Koreans in China. Koreans have worn hanbok since antiquity. The earliest visual depictions of hanbok can be traced back to the Three Kingdoms of Korea period (57 BC to 668 AD) with roots in the Proto Koreanic people of what is now northern Korea and Manchuria. The clothes are also depicted on tomb murals from the Goguryeo period (4th to 6th century AD), with the basic structure of the hanbok established since at latest this period. The ancient hanbok consisted of a jeogori (top), [[baji (clothing) (pants), [[Chima (clothing) (skirt), and the [[po (clothing) (coat). The basic structure of hanbok was designed to facilitate the ease of movement and integrated many motifs of Mu ism. For thousands of years, the hanbok most people wore was pure white with no ornamentation. More ornate hanbok was typically reserved for special occasions such as weddings. For some periods, commoners (seomin) were even forbidden from wearing colorful hanbok regularly. However, in other periods, commoners were not allowed to wear white, including during the Japanese occupation of Korea. Modern hanbok are typically patterned after the hanbok worn in the Joseon dynasty, especially due to increased cultural and economic exchange after the Chinese economic reform.

The term hanbok appeared relatively recently and is connected with the historical context in which it appeared. The term emerged in the late Joseon period, when the Empire of Japan and other western countries competed to place Korea under their own sphere of influence. The first known use of the term is in an 1881 document from the late Joseon period entitled Chŏngch'iilgi (hangul=《정치일기》). There, hanbok is used to distinguish Korean clothing from Japanese and Western style clothing. Hanbok was again used in an 1895 document to distinguish between Korean and Japanese clothing. These two usages predate the Korean Empire's popularization of the use of the hanja character Han to describe the Korean people. Beginning in 1900, Korean newspapers used the hanja character Han in words that described Korean clothing, such as Han'gugŭibok (hangul=한국의복), Han'gugyebok (hangul=한국예복), and Taehannyŏbok (hangul=대한녀복). Hanbok was used in a 1905 newspaper article to describe the clothing of one of the righteous armies. Other words with similar meanings, such as uri ot (hangul=우리옷) and chosŏn ot (hangul=조선옷), were concurrently used. Since the division of Korea, South Korea has preferred the term hanbok while North Korea has preferred the term Chosŏn ot. This reflects the general trend of South Korea's preference for the term Han and North Korea's for Chosŏn.

For women, traditional hanbok consist of the jeogori (top) and the [[chima (clothing) (skirt). The ensemble is often known as 'chima jeogori'. For men, hanbok consist of jeogori and loose fitting baji (trousers). There are also a variety of vests, jackets and coats on top of this ensemble. For women, there are Jangsam, Dansam, Wonsam, and more. For men, some examples are durumagi, [[dopo (clothing), Danryeong ui, Joong chimak, Sochang ui, Daechang ui, etc.

The jeogori is the basic upper garment of the hanbok, worn by both men and women. It covers the arms and upper part of the wearer's body. There are various styles and types of jeogori varying in fabric, sewing technique, and shape. The basic form of a jeogori consists of gil, git, dongjeong, goreum and sleeves. Gil (hangul=길) is the large section of the garment on both front and back sides, and git (hangul=깃) is a band of fabric that trims the collar. Dongjeong (hangul=동정) is a removable white collar placed over the end of the git and is generally squared off. The goreum (hangul=고름) are fabric strings that tie the jeogori.

Chima refers to "skirt", and is also called sang (裳) or gun (裙) in hanja. The underskirt, or petticoat layer, is called sokchima. Chima malgi is the waistband that trims the top of the chima. Chima were typically made from rectangular panels that were pleated or gathered into the chima malgi (waistband). This waistband also had goreum strings for fastening the skirt around the body. From the Goguryeo to Joseon periods, chima have been striped, pleated, patchworked, and gored. later developing into a sleeveless bodice or "reformed" petticoat called Eo Kkeh Heo ri Chima. By the mid 20th century, some outer chima also gained a sleeveless bodice, which was then covered by the jeogori.

Baji refers to the bottom part of the men's hanbok. It is the term for "trousers" in Korean. Compared to western style pants, baji does not fit tightly. The roomy design is aimed at making the clothing ideal for sitting on the floor and an ethnic style that dates back to the Three kingdoms period. It functions as modern trousers do and the term baji is commonly used in Korea to refer to every kind of pants. The baji malgi is a waistband of the baji that has a long string of goreum. Baji can be unlined trousers, leather trousers, silk pants, or cotton pants, depending on style of dress, sewing method, embroidery and so on.

Sokgot (hangul = 속곳) is a collective noun for various types of traditional Korean undergarments. They were worn as part of a hanbok before the import of Western style underwear. Women usually wore several layers of undergarments, the more layers they had the richer they were. Undergarments were considered very important, thus it happened that the quality and material of the underwear was better than that of the visible outer layers.

Deot ot refers to a category of outer layers worn on top of the jeogori. There are many varieties other than the ones listed here.

Po is a generic term referring to an outer robe or overcoat. There are two general types of po, the Korean type and the Chinese type. The Korean type is a common style from the Three Kingdoms of Korea period, and it is used in the modern day.

Banbi (Chinese: 半臂 bàn bì, literally “half sleeve”) are a type Hanfu that originated from the Tang dynasty. Banbi refers to variety of short sleeved garments worn on top of inner garments, typically the Yuanling pao (Chinese: 圓領袍， “round collar robe”). Numerous outer half sleeved Banbi can be seen in ancient Tang era paintings, murals, and statues.

A sleeveless outer garment that was derived from Mongolian clothing worn during the Goryeo period.

Baeja refers to sleeveless outer garments that are worn on top of inner garments. It can be different lengths, short to long. Kwaeja is interchangeable with baeja, but kwaeja often refers to men's clothing.

The dapho is a short sleeved men's outer garment, often part of military uniform or official uniform.

Jokki is a type of vest, while magoja is an outer jacket. The jokki was created around late Joseon dynasty, as Western culture began to affect Korea.

Magoja does not have a git, the band of fabric trimming the collar. Long sleeved Magoja were derived from the magwae he wore in exile because of the cold climate there. Owing to its warmth and ease of wear, magoja became popular in Korea. It is also called "deot jeogori" (literally "an outer jeogori") or magwae. It is a children's colorful overcoat. It was worn mostly by young boys. The clothes is also called obangjang durumagi which means "an overcoat of five directions". hogeon (peaked cloth hat with a tiger pattern) for young boys or gulle (decorative headgear) for young girls.

The clothing of Korea's rulers and aristocrats after AD 7, was influenced by both foreign and indigenous styles, including significant influences from various Chinese dynasties, resulting in some styles of clothing, such as the [[Shenyi from Song dynasty, gwanbok worn by male officials were generally adopted from and/or influenced by the court clothing system of the Tang, Song, and Court clothing of women in the court and women of royalty were adapted from the clothing style of Tang and Ming dynasties, the cheolik from the Mongol clothing and bestowed from the Ming court, and the magoja from Manchu clothing. The cultural exchange was also bilateral and Goryeo hanbok had cultural influence on some clothing of Yuan dynasty worn by the upper class (i. e. the clothing worn by Mongol royal women's clothing Commoners were less influenced by these foreign fashion trends, and mainly wore a style of indigenous clothing distinct from that of the upper classes.

The choice of hanbok can also signal social position. Bright colors, for example, were generally worn by children and girls, and muted hues by middle aged men and women. Unmarried women often wore yellow jeogori and red chima while matrons wore green and red, and women with sons donned navy. The upper classes wore a variety of colours. Contrastingly, commoners were required to wear white, but dressed in shades of pale pink, light green, gray and charcoal on special occasions. The material of the hanbok also signaled status. The upper classes dressed in hanbok of closely woven ramie cloth or other high grade lightweight materials in warmer months and of plain and patterned silks throughout the remainder of the year. Commoners, in contrast, were restricted to cotton. Patterns were embroidered on hanbok to represent the wishes of the wearer. Peonies on a wedding dress, represented a wish for honor and wealth. Lotus flowers symbolized a hope for nobility, and bats and pomegranates showed the desire for children. Dragons, phoenixes, cranes and tigers were only for royalty and high ranking officials. In addition, special variants were made for officials and shamans. The origin of ancient hanbok can be found in the ancient clothing of what is now today's Northern Korea and Manchuria. Some hypothesize that the hanbok of antiquity can trace its origin to nomadic clothing of the Eurasian Steppes (Scythian clothing), spanning across Siberia from western Asia to Northeast Asia, interconnected by the Steppe Route. Reflecting its nomadic origins in western and northern Asia, ancient hanbok shared structural similarities with hobok type clothing of the nomadic cultures in East Asia, designed to facilitate horse riding and ease of movement, such as the use of trousers and jacket for male clothing and the use of left closure in its jacket. However, although the ancient hanbok reflects some similarity with the Scythian clothing, numerous differences between the two types of clothing have also been observed which led associated professor Youngsoo Chang from the Department of Cultural Properties in Gyeongju University in 2020 to suggest that the theory about Scythian clothing being the archetype of the ancient hanbok, a theory accepted as common knowledge in Korean academia, having to be revised. The former is the second capital of Goguryeo while the latter is the third capital of Goguryeo from the mid fourth to the mid seventh centuries. Trousers, long jackets and twii (a sash like belt) were worn by both men and women. Women wore skirts on top of their trousers. These basic structural and features of hanbok remain relatively unchanged to this day, except for the length and the ways the jeogori opening was closed as over the years. Two types of hwa (shoes) were used, one covering only the foot, and the other covering up to the lower knee. During this period, conical hat and its similar variants, sometimes adorned with long bird feathers, were worn as headgear. In Silla, the dallyeong was introduced by Muyeol of Silla in the second year of queen Jindeok of Silla. Based on archaeological findings, it is assumed that the clothing which was brought back during Queen Jindeok rule are danryunpo and bokdu. In 664 AD, Munmu of Silla decreed that the costume of the queen should resemble the costume of the Tang dynasty; and thus, women's costume also accepted the costume culture of the Tang dynasty. The influence of the Tang dynasty during this time was significant and the Tang court dress regulations were adopted in the Silla court. The clothing of the Tang dynasty introduced in Silla made the clothing attire of Silla Court extravagant, and due to the extravagance, King Heundeog enforced clothing prohibition during the year 834 AD. Early Balhae officials wore clothing appeared to continue the Three Kingdoms period tradition. The way of wearing the top under the chima (Tang style influenced fashion) did not disappear in Goryeo and continued to coexist with the indigenous style of wearing of the top over skirt throughout the entire Goryeo dynasty; this Tang style influenced fashion continued to be worn until the early Joseon dynasty and only disappeared in the middle and late Joseon periods. In Goryeo Buddhist paintings, the clothing and headwear of royalty and nobles typically follows the clothing system of the Song dynasty. The Goryeo painting "Water Moon Avalokiteshvara", for example, is a Buddhist painting which was derived from both Chinese and Central Asian pictorial references. On the other hand, the Chinese clothing worn in Yuan dynasty rarely appeared in paintings of Goryeo. However, even in the Buddhist painting of the late Goryeo, such as the Royal Palace Mandala, the courting ladies are depicted in Tang and Song dynasty style court dress clothing, which is a different style from the Mongol Yuan court. File:Goryeohanbok. jpg|alt=A noblewoman's attire in Water Moon Avalokiteshvara,It were chima jeogori,it was a Goryeo dynasty painting, 1323 AD.|Chima jeogori, a noblewoman's attire in Water Moon Avalokiteshvara, Goryeo dynasty painting, 1323 AD. A total of seven women from the Yuan imperial family were married to the kings of Goryeo. However, this influence on the Mongol court clothing mainly occurred in the last years of the Yuan dynasty. Throughout the Yuan dynasty, many people from Goryeo were forced to move into the Yuan; most of them were kongnyo (literally translated as "tribute women"), eunuchs, and war prisoners. About 2000 women from Goryeo were sent to Yuan as kongnyo against their will. However, so far, the modern interpretation on the appearance of Mongol royal women's clothing influenced by Goryeo is based on authors' suggestions.

Neo Confucianism as the ruling ideology in Joseon was established by the early Joseon dynasty kings; this led to the dictation of clothing style worn by all social classes in Joseon (including the dress of the royals, the court members, the aristocrats and commoners) in all types of occasions, which included wedding and funerals. Social values such as the integrity in men and chastity in women were also reflected in how people would dress.

[[File:밀양고법리박익벽화묘1. jpg|thumb|Ordinary people's clothing, the murals from the tomb of Bak Ik are valuable resources in Korean archaeology and art history for study of life and customs in the early Joseon. The women of the upper classes, the monarchy and the court wore hanbok which was inspired by the Ming dynasty clothing while simultaneously maintaining a distinctive Korean style look; in turn, the women of the lower class generally imitated the upper class women clothing. During the Joseon dynasty, the chima or skirt adopted fuller volume, while the jeogori or blouse took more tightened and shortened form, features quite distinct from the hanbok of previous centuries, when chima was rather slim and jeogori baggy and long, reaching well below waist level. In the 15th century, neo confucianism was very rooted in the social life in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries which lead to the strict regulation of clothing (including fabric use, colours of fabric, motifs, and ornaments) based on status. Neo confucianism also influence women's wearing of full pleated chima, longer jeogori, and multiple layers clothing in order to never reveal skin. In the 15th century, women started wearing of full pleated chima which completely hide the body lines and longer length jeogori. The 15th century AD chima jeogori style was undoubtedly a clothing style introduced from China consisting of longer jeogori and pleated chima. The length of women's jeogori gradually shortened: it was approximately 65 cm in the 16th century, 55 cm in the 17th century, 45 cm in the 18th century, and 28 cm in the 19th century, with some as short as 14.5 cm. As there was an excessive preference for boys in the Joseon dynasty, the deliberate exposure of breast eventually became a cultural practice and an indicator of women's pride and status symbol in having given birth to a son and thus she would "proudly bare her breasts to feed her child, deliberately provoking the envy of other women". Under the 1884's decree of King Gojong, only narrow sleeves traditional overcoat were permitted; as such, all Koreans, regardless of their social class, their age and their gender started to wear the durumagi or chaksuui or ju ui (周衣). The gat was considered an essential aspect in a man's life; however, to replace the gat in more informal setting, such as their residences, and to feel more comfortable, Joseon era aristocrats also adopted a lot hats which were introduced from China, such as the banggwan, sabanggwan, dongpagwan, waryonggwan, jeongjagwan. Owing to the influence of Neo Confucianism, it was compulsory for women throughout the entire society to wear headdresses (nae oe seugae) to avoid exposing their faces when going outside; those headdresses may include suegaechima (a headdress which looked like a chima but was narrower and shorter in style worn by the upper class women and later by all classes of people in late Joseon), the jang ot, and the neoul (which was only permitted for court ladies and noblewomen). In the 19th century yangban women began to wear jokduri, a small hat that replaced gache. However gache enjoyed vast popularity in kisaeng circles well into the end of the century.

Today's hanbok is the direct descendant of hanbok patterned after those worn by the aristocratic women or by the people who were at least from the middle class in the Joseon period, specifically the late 19th century. Hanbok had gone through various changes and fashion fads during the five hundred years under the reigns of Joseon kings and eventually evolved to what we now mostly consider typical hanbok. Beginning in the late 19th century, hanbok was largely replaced by new Western imports like the Western suit and dress. Today, formal and casual wear are usually based on Western styles. However, hanbok is still worn for traditional occasions, and is reserved for celebrations like weddings, the Lunar New Year, annual ancestral rites, or the birth of a child.

Hanbok has been featured in international haute couture; on the catwalk, in 2015 when Karl Lagerfield dressed Korean models for Chanel, and during Paris Fashion Week in photography by Phil Oh. It has also been worn by international celebrities, such as Britney Spears and Jessica Alba, and athletes, such as tennis player Venus Williams and football player Hines Ward. Hanbok is also popular among Asian American celebrities, such as Lisa Ling and Miss Asia 2014, Eriko Lee Katayama. It has also made appearances on the red carpet, and was worn by Sandra Oh at the SAG Awards, and by Sandra Oh's mother who made fashion history in 2018 for wearing a hanbok to the Emmy Awards.

The South Korean government has supported the resurgence of interest in hanbok by sponsoring fashion designers. Domestically, hanbok has become trendy in street fashion and music videos. It has been worn by the prominent K pop artists like Blackpink and BTS, notably in their music videos for "How You Like That" and "Idol." In Seoul, a tourist's wearing of hanbok makes their visit to the Five Grand Palaces (Changdeokgung, Changgyeonggung, Deoksugung, Gyeongbokgung and Gyeonghuigung) free of charge.

Hanbok is also worn in present day North Korea where it is known as Joseon ot (hangul=조선옷). The Joseon ot thus highlights the identity of the Korean ethnic and has been more actively promoted under the rule of Kim Jong Un. and when North Koreans celebrate the 60th, 70th, and 80th birthdays of their parents. this style can, however, be traced to a typical clothing style used in the Joseon dynasty period. and since the 2002, North Korea have held their own fashion show in Pyeongyang every spring. people from chaoxianzu ethnic are not recent immigrants in China but have a long history having lived in China for generations. In the Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture, where most chaoxianzu reside, due to the isolation for about 50 years from both the North and South Koreas. In 2022, a girl from the [[Koreans in China ethnic wore a chaoxianfu on the 2022 Beijing Winter Olympics opening ceremony leading to an uproar from South Koreans who accused China of cultural appropriation.) and gender through the many types, components, and characteristics. Although the modern hanbok does not express a person's status or social position, hanbok was an important element of distinguishment especially in the Goryeo and Joseon dynasties. Popular embroidered patterns on hwarot were lotuses, phoenixes, butterflies, and the ten traditional symbols of longevity: the sun; mountains; water; clouds; rocks/stone; pine trees; the mushroom of immortality; turtles; white cranes, and deer. Each pattern represented a different role within society, for example: a dragon represented an emperor while a phoenix represented a queen; floral patterns represented a princess and a king's daughter by a concubine, and clouds and cranes represented high ranking court officials. The Wonsam was also adopted from China and is believed to have been one of the costumes from the Tang dynasty which was bestowed in the Unified Three Kingdoms period. The dangui came in many colors, but yellow and/or green were most common. However the emperor wore purple dangui, and the queen wore red. Myeonbok was composed of Myeonryu Gwan (hangul=면류관) and Gujang bok (hangul=구장복). The empress wore purple red colored Jeokui, the queen wore pink, and the crown princess wore deep blue. It was usually worn as a military uniform, but by the end of the Joseon dynasty, it had begun to be worn in more casual situations. It was typically yellow, but for the student who scored the highest in the exam, they were rewarded with the ability to wear green Aengsam.

Binyeo was a traditional ornamental hairpin, and it had a different shaped tip again depending on social status. As a result, it was possible to determine the social status of the person by looking at the binyeo. Women in the royal family had dragon or phoenix shaped Binyeo while ordinary women had trees or Japanese apricot flowers. And Binyeo was a proof of marriage. Therefore, to a woman, Binyeo was an expression of chastity and decency.

Daenggi is a traditional Korean ribbon made of cloth to tie and to decorate braided hair.

Norigae was a typical traditional accessory for women; it was worn by all women regardless of social ranks. However, the social rank of the wearer determined the different sizes and materials of the norigae. Danghye were decorated with trees bearing grapes, pomegranates, chrysanthemums, or peonies: these were symbols of longevity.

Danghye for a woman in the royal family were known as kunghye (hangul=궁혜), and they were usually patterned with flowers. In the case of jeogori, there are more than 10 types of general materials such as silk, jade, and general wool, and they use ramie or hemp in summer, and silk or Gapsa, Hangra, and Guksa cloth in spring and autumn. The material used evenly throughout the four seasons was sesame, and silk, both ends, and silk were often used in the durumagi for adult men. In the case of silk, which is one of the most widely used materials due to differences in lining and outer material, most of the silk jeogori was lined with silk, and if it was not possible, only the inside of the collar, the tip, and the sap were lined with silk. If this situation did not work out like this, the fine grained cotton was used. In fact, more than half of the materials identified in the jeogori study were silk, followed by cotton and hemp. In some cases, silk and cotton were lined with a mixture. When the jeogori was torn or broken, most of them were sewn with the same fabric, and a large piece was added to the elbow and sewn. Just as in the fact that silk was used a lot in jeogori, silk, cotton, and literary arts were evenly used in various clothes, ranging from red ginseng, skirt, beoseon, and pants.