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Murnau am Staffelsee (often shortend to Murnau) is a market town in the district of Garmisch Partenkirchen, in the Oberbayern region of Bavaria, Germany. The market originated in the 12th century around Murnau Castle. Murnau is on the edge of the Bavarian Alps, about south of Munich. Directly to its west is the Staffelsee lake and to the south are the peaks and ridges of the Ammergau Alps beginning with the Hörnle and extending up to the Ettaler Manndl, southwest of the Wetterstein. This mountain range is formed by the Zugspitze and the Alpspitze in the south as well as the Estergebirge with their striking Kistenkar and the Walchensee mountains including Heimgarten and Herzogstand in the southeast. To the south, the Murnauer Moos is the largest continuous wetland of its kind in Central Europe.

The area around Murnau was already settled in pre Christian times. From the reign of Septimius Severus, a Roman road called Via Raetia led above the Brenner Pass and Seefeld Saddle through the upper Isar Loisachtal valleys all the way to Augsburg. The road continued under the name Via Imperii as an imperial road and trade route until the 19th century. Signs of Celtic and Roman settlements have been found on the now eroded moss area around the Moosberg in the Murnauer Moos. At that time Murnau was no more than a stopping off point for travellers, called Murau or Mureau. The name Murnau comes from Mure ("mudslide") and Aue ("meadow"), referring to the Murnauer Moos and Loisachtal.

Murnau was first documented in 1150. The first official mention of the church of Saint Nicholas was in a document of 1300, and the castle (Schlossmuseum) is first mentioned in 1324. In 1350 Louis V, Duke of Bavaria granted Murnau the Blutbann (the right of high justice), the Niederlagerecht (the staple right), and the right to hold a market weekly on Wednesdays and at Michaelmas. It retains the title of "Markt" ("market") to this day.

From 1632 to 1648, Murnau was occupied by Swedish and French troops during the Thirty Years' War. Plague broke out in 1634. The church of Saint Nikolaus was rebuilt between 1717 and 1734. In 1722 the town was granted the right to hold the Leonhardimarkt and Skapuliermarkt fairs. In 1803 the Ettal Abbey was dissolved, the office of Pfleger was abolished and Murnau was assigned to the district court of Weilheim. The town suffered a major fire in 1835 and subsequently was almost completely rebuilt, leading to the enclosed townscape seen today. In 1879 the Weilheim to Murnau railway opened. Ten years later in 1889 the connection to Garmisch opened, followed by the line to Oberammergau in 1900. On the initiative of Emanuel von Seidls, Murnau changed completely at the start of the 20th century.

In 1908 two pairs of artists (Gabriele Münter and Vassily Kandinsky; and Marianne von Werefkin and Alexej Jawlensky) stayed in Murnau at the same time to paint together. Through their pictures of Murnau and its scenery, which they continued to paint until 1914, the market town became famous to a worldwide art audience. In the history of art, this period before the First World War is called the "Murnau Era". This period is directly connected to these four artists and marks stylistically the development from expressionism to abstract art. Today, the Münter Haus ("Russian House"), where Münter moved in 1909 with Kandinsky, is one of the most prominent cultural attractions of Murnau; as is also the Castle Museum with its art collection. From 1923 to 1933 the author Ödön von Horváth lived and worked in Murnau; he was an opponent of the Nazis. In 1924 a private girls' high school (later a Gymnasium) was founded. A new hospital, founded by Dr. hc James Loeb, was built in 1932. Some citizens of Murnau took part in Hitler's putsch in Munich and received the Blood Order. During the Nazi era, Murnau received a garrison of mountain troops for the first time. In the war, Polish officers were imprisoned in the Werdenfelser barracks, which housed the Oflag VII A POW camp. Christoph Probst was born and raised in Murnau. In Munich he joined the White Rose an anti Nazi group. The Gestapo arrested a few of its inner circle. Along with the Geschwister Scholl, the 23 years old Probst was found guilty after a two hour trial, and beheaded by guillotine the same day February 22, 1943. After the Second World War, the town was part of West Germany. In 1953 the trade association's accident clinic opened in the southeast of the town, and has since been regularly expanded. The Goethe Institute opened its gates in 1954, and in 1956 and in 1971 the barracks were occupied by the army again. Numerous country houses, including some villas and a sports hall, which was built by Emanuel von Seidl, were demolished in the 1960s and 70s. The Staffelsee high school was extended to a full school in 1967. On 1 July 1972 Murnau was separated from the administrative district of Weilheim and transferred to that of Garmisch Partenkirchen. On 12 March 1979 the name of the municipality of Murnau was officially changed to Murnau am Staffelsee. In 1979 a youth centre was opened, and in 2006 it acquired its own building, the Erlhaus, named after its founder. In 1980 The Murnauer Moss became a nature reserve. In 1993 the Castle Museum opened. From 1998 to 2000 Murnau's historic centre underwent restoration. The redesigned Münterhaus reopened in 1999. In 2000 the pedestrian zone and the underground car park were inaugurated.

On 1 July 1974 the independent municipality Weindorf was integrated. In January 1978 parts of the municipalities called Riegsee and Seehausen were added. On 1 May 1978 the incorporation of the village Hechendorf forms the final point.

Year 1840 1871 1900 1925 1939 1950 1961 1970 1987 2000 2005 Residents 1.565 1.735 2.436 3.223 5.189 6.474 7.366 8.233 9.913 11.671 12.048

The coat of arms shows a green dragon with a red tongue and claws on silver background. Its body is turned to the right but its head is pointing backwards to the left. When the dragon first appears in the Murnauer blazon can't be said exactly. The first local seal turns up in 1374.

Murnau is a minor train hub, since Murnau station is the place where the Munich–Garmisch Partenkirchen and the Oberammergau lines intersect. The first electrical signal box of the Deutsche Bundesbahn was installed here. The municipality has three other stations on the Oberammergau line: , , and Also, the A95 motorway and the B 2 Bundesstrasse run through or near Murnau.

Murnau has two elementary schools, the "James Loeb Grundschule" and the "Emmanuel von Seidl Schule", the gymnasium "Staffelsee Gymnasium" and the general school "Mittelschule Murnau". The last one was originally planned to be a boys school but since 2013/14 it has accepted girls as well. In the beginning, the pupils have been accommodated in temporary containers. In the end of 2014 the first section was finished and the classes finally could move into the new schoolhouse. The investment sum was 21 million €. In 1964 the Camerloher music school Murnau was founded.

Murnau has two hospitals: the Berufsgenossenschaftliche Unfallklinik, an emergency and accident hospital specializing in trauma surgery, and the clinic Hohenried, a professional clinic for children. Murnau is also used as a health resort by many guests and cure patients.