Мемлекеттік киім мен сарайлық әшекейлік киімдер

none
courtly dress, and uniform worn by state officials

Court uniform and dress were required to be worn by those in attendance at the royal court in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Specifically, court uniform was worn by those holding particular offices associated with the government, the Civil Service, the Royal Household, or similar national institutions. A range of office holders were entitled to wear it, with different grades of uniform specified for different grades of official. It is still worn today on state occasions by certain dignitaries both in the UK and abroad. Court dress, on the other hand, is a stylized form of clothing deriving from fashionable eighteenth century wear, which was directed to be worn at court by those not entitled to a court uniform. For men, it comprised a matching tailcoat and waistcoat, breeches and stockings, lace cuffs and Cravat, cocked hat and a sword. For women, a white or cream evening gown was to be worn, together with a train and other specified accoutrements. Male court dress is still worn today as part of the formal dress of judges and King's Counsel, and is also worn by certain Lord Mayors, parliamentary officials, and high sheriffs of counties. Formerly, female court dress was required wear for debutantes being presented at court, but it ceased to be regularly worn after the Second World War, as afternoon presentations largely replaced evening courts. which was published by the Lord Chamberlain's Office. The 1937 edition remains authoritative for those rare circumstances in which court uniform or court dress are still required.

Court dress (as distinguished from court uniform) was worn by all men not entitled to court uniform or military uniform on occasions of state where such were customarily worn. Such occasions are now rare, but formerly they included state balls, evening state parties, courts and levées. (Courts were evening occasions at which women were formally presented to the monarch; levées were morning gatherings at which men were presented.) It is still worn today, to a very limited extent, in courts of law and by certain parliamentary and other office holders; the last time it was worn by people in significant numbers was at the Coronation in 1953. It consists of a tail coat with matching waistcoat and breeches, lace cuffs and jabot, silk stockings, buckled shoes, cocked hat, white gloves and a sword. At one time suits of various colours were to be seen, often with gold or silver embroidery; but (as is generally the case with men's formal dress) black is now the predominant colour, and has been since the nineteenth century.

Peers' robes were worn over normal dress, which gradually became stylised as the court suit. It was only from the late eighteenth century that court dress became fossilised. By the early to mid eighteenth century velvet was largely confined to court dress. Court dress was obligatory in Westminster Abbey for all not wearing official or lordly apparel. During the seventeenth century, gentlemen's court dress was largely determined by two related influences, the retention of out dated styles, producing a distinctive form of dress, and an interest in military uniform. The first produced the court suit, a coat with tails, waistcoat and knee breeches, worn with silk stockings, and a formal court sword with a cut steel hilt and embellishments, and bicorne hat. The court suit has undergone a number of changes since the eighteenth century. However, apart from changes in the cut of the sleeves and shoulders, there was little basic alteration until the third quarter of the nineteenth century. In the eighteenth century, dress worn at court comprised gold and silver stuff, brocades, velvets and cloth coats. They were always embroidered, and worn with waistcoats generally of a different colour gold or silver brocade, damask, silk or satin, heavily embroidered or laced in silver or gold. From the 1730s at least, cloth was popular for court wear. By the 1780s dress was established as dark cloth or velvet, embroidered in silk or metal, single breasted silk waistcoat (usually white), with the fronts curved away.

From 1810, the Lord Chamberlain laid down regulations for court dress. In the nineteenth century court dress coats were commonly black, brown, dark green, purple, or blue. Breeches matched, or could be silk of a similar colour. The coat, and sometimes the breeches, were embroidered. The waistcoat was generally white satin, sometimes embroidered. These were worn with white silk stockings, black shoes with shoe buckles, and sword. A wig bag was found on the back of the neck. A crescent shaped chapeau bras, known as an opera hat, developed in the 1760s–1770s from the three cornered hat. In the second decade of the nineteenth century, this hat became known simply as the cocked hat. In the 1830s–1840s, the full court dress was sometimes decorated with embroidery, and sometimes not. Cloth was most general, but velvet was also used. For levées, cloth trousers were worn. A new style of court dress, worn from the 1840s, comprised a dark, frequently black, cloth (or silk velvet) single breasted dress coat (lined with black silk, except for the tail, which was white), with a stand collar. This was worn with a white satin or black silk collarless waistcoat, and white neckcloth. For levées, this was worn with matching velvet trousers with a gold lace stripe down the seam. For drawing rooms matching breeches with white silk stockings, and a white neck cloth was worn. In 1869, the Lord Chamberlain's Department issued new regulations for gentlemen at Court. The new style of suit was described, in which the cloth coat and breeches were replaced with silk velvet. This had been permitted before, but in place of the embroidered waistcoat was a waistcoat of plain white silk. A coat for levée dress had dark coloured cloth, single breasted, with a stand collar, and trousers of the same material and colour as the coat, both decorated with narrow gold lace on collar, cuffs and pocket flaps, similar to that worn on certain classes of the civil uniform. A gold lace loop and button were similarly worn on the hat, and a sword of the same pattern carried. In 1898, court dress was described as black (often very dark blue) velvet, or a dark colour cloth suit (not black). The velvet version in 1898 was without gold embroidery on the coat, and the buttons were gilt, steel or plain. The waistcoat was either black velvet, or the normal white one. Trousers were of velvet. Hats were as for the cloth version, that is beaver or silk cocked hat with black silk cockade, but the loop and buttons were gilt or steel, and there was no lace. The sword was gilt or steel with silk shoulder belt. A white neckcloth was worn. When breeches were worn they were black velvet with black silk hose. Gilt or steel buckled shoes were worn. The velvet suit was all black. (from 1914 to the 1920s, an unofficial style had been used). It comprised black dress coat with silk facings (or revers), white marcella (or the same material as coat) waistcoat, black cloth knee breeches with three buttons and black strap fastening with black buckle, black silk stockings with plain black court shoes with bows, and white gloves. This was worn with ordinary dress shirt, collar, white bow tie, and opera hat. This was very similar to the "frock dress" introduced in the mid nineteenth century, and worn at dinners and evening parties when uniform was not worn: frock dress in 1883 comprised dress coat and waistcoat, breeches or pantaloons, white cravat. In 1908 this was described as being dress coat with silk facings, black or white waistcoat, black cloth or stockinette breeches, with three black buttons and buckle at knee, pantaloons not now being allowed. This was worn with plain court shoes with bows, not buckles, and the cravat was replaced by a white tie. A folding cocked hat in corded silk with a black loop and rosette and white gloves finished the dress, which was used for dinners, balls, and receptions. In 1912, the frock dress was the same, except that the hat was now an opera hat. In 1929 and 1937, this was substantially the same, except that a stiff evening dress shirt and a winged collar were added, and opera hat omitted. In the Army and Navy Stores catalogue of 1939 this dress is described as the "new pattern cloth (alternative) Evening Dress". Official sanction of 'Frock dress' as an alternative to Court dress coincided with the election of Britain's first Labour government (George V is said to have shown sensitivity to his new government in sartorial matters). By the time of the 1953 Coronation, those in procession in the Abbey were instructed to wear full dress uniform or Court dress; but for other gentlemen a range of dress was permitted: 'one of the forms of Court Dress as laid down in the Lord Chamberlain's Regulations for Dress at Court, or evening dress with knee breeches or trousers, or morning dress, or dark lounge suits.' On both occasions, 'Oriental dress' was also permitted, for those for whom it was 'the usual Ceremonial Costume'.

In the twenty first century old and new style velvet Court Dress has become the distinctive garb of High Sheriffs (see the external images in the links on the right). Since the death of Elizabeth II, male members of the Royal Family have ceased to wear 'Alternative Court Dress' (with knee breeches) for the annual Diplomatic Reception at Buckingham Palace. Varieties of court dress continue to be worn by senior legal professionals, and by certain parliamentary and other officials.

There were slight variations in the velvet and cloth court suits in the case of the judiciary and the legal profession in 1937. This is worn still by legal persons, mostly by King's Counsel and judges of the superior courts – when sitting in the divisional court and administrative court of the King's Bench division of the High Court, and in the Court of Appeal Criminal Division – and by some parliamentary officials. It is a single breasted cloth or velvet coat, of cut away front style, with seven buttons although actually fastened edge to edge on the chest by a hook and eye arrangement. There are six buttons at the back, with two extra halfway down the tails. The coat is worn with a waistcoat, breeches to match the coat, black silk stockings, buckled shoes, sling sword, cocked hat, lace frill, ruffles, black silk flash (or wig bag). They are worn with military boots and trousers for levées. For daily wear, only the coat and waistcoat are worn, with trousers and shoes. Full dress for the Lord Chancellor and judges comprises black cloth or velvet court coat, waistcoat, black cloth knee breeches, black silk stockings, shoes and steel buckles, plain bands, white gloves, and a beaver hat. The cloth dress is worn only on such occasions as when attending St Paul's Cathedral in state, the Lord Chancellor's Breakfast, in court on the first day of Michaelmas Law Term, and at the House of Lords when His Majesty The King is personally present, and is worn with robes, wigs and lace bands. On other state and semi state occasions, ordinary black velvet court dress of the legal style should be worn.

The Clerks of both Houses wear short wig and gown over a legal cloth court suit, worn with trousers and white bow tie. At the State Opening and on similar occasions the Clerk of the Parliaments and the Clerk of the House of Commons wear the same dress but with knee breeches and lace jabot & cuffs. The Clerk of the Crown and their Deputy wear the same dress in most respects, but with bands rather than bow tie. The Serjeants at Arms wear a cloth court suit of legal pattern with knee breeches, white gloves and silver hilted sword. On State occasions they wear lace and a Collar of Esses also. Black Rod is similarly dressed (with, on State occasions, his chain of office rather than the collar) but with black hilted sword, black leather gloves and black shoe buckles (rather than silver). Doorkeepers in both Houses have, since the nineteenth century, worn a black evening dress suit, black waistcoat, white tie and a silver gilt badge suspended from the neck. In the House of Commons, the Speaker traditionally wore a black silk gown over a black cloth court suit of legal pattern, knee breeches, white bands, full bottomed wig, and carried a three cornered hat. On state occasions, as when attending on His Majesty together with the House of Commons (such as for the State Opening of Parliament or the presentation of an Address) the Speaker traditionally wore a state robe of black satin damask with gold lace guarding over a black velvet court suit, lace jabot, lace ruffles or cuffs, full bottomed wig and white gloves, with hat. For mourning, the Speaker has traditionally worn a black paramatta gown, white 'weepers' (broad linen wraps) on coat cuffs, broad hemmed frill and ruffles instead of lace, lawn bands, and black buckles on shoes and knees replacing the bright metal ones. This was worn by Sir Lindsay Hoyle in 2022 when the House of Commons sat in the aftermath of the death of Queen Elizabeth II. Others in Court dress wear broad hemmed frill and ruffles, black buckles and gloves and a black mounted sword. The Speaker's Secretary and his train bearer wear a black cloth court suit of legal pattern, with lace frill and ruffles, steel buckles on breeches and shoes, cocked hat and sword. The formal dress of the Lord Chancellor was and is almost identical to that traditionally worn by the Speaker of the House of Commons, as is that of the Lord Speaker of the House of Lords.

At courts and levées, bishops were directed to wear rochet and chimere; other clergy (and nonconformist ministers) were to wear cassock, gown and scarf. For 'state or full dress dinners, and evening state parties', however, they were to wear a cloth court coat with knee breeches and buckled shoes.

The Lord Great Chamberlain wears a unique form of Court uniform, his coatee being scarlet (with scarlet facings) rather than blue. The Earl Marshal's coatee is also scarlet, with dark blue collar and cuffs. The Earl Marshal's officers (i. e. the Pursuivants, Heralds and Kings of Arms) wear similar coatees with varying degrees of embroidery. All the aforementioned continue to wear the uniform at the State Opening of Parliament and on other occasions, the officers of arms wearing it under their tabards.

Members of the Diplomatic Service wore Court Uniform: ambassadors' coats wore 1st class civil uniform, but with additional embroidery on the sleeves and back seams. High commissioners for Dominions in London wore 1st class uniform. The High Commissioner for Southern Rhodesia, and Agents General for Australian states, wore 2nd class uniform. The King's or Queen's Foreign Service Messengers were entitled to 5th class court uniform (upgraded to 4th class in 1929) and also wore a distinctive greyhound badge. The coatee (for both full dress and levée dress) was in blue cloth, with a Prussian collar, single breasted buttoning with nine frosted gilt buttons of royal arms, two more buttons on back waist, two more on coat tails. Consuls general and consuls had embroidered gold and silver lace on collar, cuffs, pocket flaps, and back. Consuls general had , consuls Vice consuls on cuffs, and front half of collar only. All wore white breeches and stockings, patent leather court shoes with gilt buckles for full dress, or trousers with silver lace stripes and patent leather military boots for levée dress. Consuls' stripes were , others' were These were worn with black beaver cocked hats, black cockade, silver bullion loops, and gold tassels. For consuls general there were treble loops and a border of black ostrich feathers, for consuls double loops, and for vice consuls single loops. A blue greatcoat or cloak, blue detachable cape was for outdoors use. The sword accessories were the same as for standard court uniform. Members of the Colonial Service wore Court Uniform (or military uniform, if so entitled); but Governors, and Governors General have distinctive uniform of their own: a plain blue coat, scarlet collar and cuffs (embroidered in silver), silver epaulettes and trimmings and a plumed hat (with Governors General wearing aiguillettes in addition). This uniform (in slightly simplified form) continues to be worn by Governors of British Overseas Territories. Lieutenant Governors and other officials of various ranks wear regular Court Uniform, as detailed above. Indian members of the Indian Civil Service were entitled to civil uniform, with a turban or pagri replacing the cocked hat, or the national dress which they were accustomed to wear on ceremonial occasions. They could also wear a blue coat buttoning from the neck to below the waist, worn with white trousers or pyjamas and the native head dress.

For all the above, a simplified white uniform was provided for use in tropical postings: of white drill with gilt buttons. Members of the diplomatic and consular services had the same embroidery on the collar and cuffs as on the full dress blue coatee, but worked on (detachable) white cloth panels. Members of the colonial service, on the other hand, wore dark blue gorget patches with gold braid, which varied according to rank (as did the number of buttons on the cuff). With this uniform the same cocked hat was worn as with the temperate uniform, or else (specifically 'out of doors during the day') a white sun helmet would be worn; in full dress, the helmet would have a spike attached (for members of the diplomatic and consular services) or (for governors and governors general) a plume.