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Church in Durham, County Durham, England

Durham Cathedral, formally the Cathedral Church of Christ, Blessed Mary the Virgin and St Cuthbert of Durham, is a Church of England cathedral in the city of Durham, England. The cathedral is the seat of the bishop of Durham and is the mother church of the diocese of Durham. It also contains the shrines of the Anglo Saxon saints Cuthbert and Bede. There are daily Church of England services at the cathedral, and it received 727,367 visitors in 2019. It is a grade I listed building and forms part of the Durham Castle and Cathedral World Heritage Site. The cathedral is the successor to the Anglo Saxon Lindisfarne Priory, which was established c. 635 but abandoned in 875 in the face of Viking raids. The monks settled at Chester le Street from 882 until 995, when they moved to Durham. The cathedral remained a monastery until it was dissolved in 1541, since when it has been governed by a dean and chapter. The cathedral precinct formed part of Durham Castle from the eleventh century. During the Wars of the Three Kingdoms the cathedral housed 3000 Scottish prisoners of war, 1,700 of whom died in the building. The present building was substantially completed between 1093 and 1133, replacing the Anglo Saxon 'White Church'. It is a significant example of the Romanesque architectural style, and the nave ceiling is the earliest surviving example of a pointed rib vault. The Galilee chapel was added to the west end of the cathedral in the 1170s, and the western towers built in approximately 1200. The east end was expanded in the Early English Gothic style in the 1230s, and the Perpendicular Gothic central tower was built in two stages in the fifteenth century. Important furnishings include the medieval bishop's throne and Neville screen, Prior Castell's Clock, and the seventeenth century choir stalls and font cover installed by Bishop Cosin. Many of the monastic buildings survive; the monks' refectory now contains part of the cathedral library, which holds significant collections dating back to the sixth century.

The See of Durham takes its origins from the Diocese of Lindisfarne, founded by Saint Aidan at the behest of Oswald of Northumbria in about 635, which was translated to York in 664. The see was reinstated at Lindisfarne in 678 by the Archbishop of Canterbury. Among the many saints who originated at Lindisfarne Priory, the greatest was Saint Cuthbert, Bishop of Lindisfarne from 685 until his death in 687, who is central to the development of Durham Cathedral. After repeated Viking raids, the monks fled from Lindisfarne in 875, carrying Saint Cuthbert's relics with them. The diocese of Lindisfarne remained itinerant until 882, when the monks resettled at Chester le Street, 60 miles south of Lindisfarne and 6 miles north of Durham. The see remained at Chester le Street until 995, when further Viking incursions once again caused the monks to move with their relics. According to the local legend of the Dun Cow and the saint's hagiography, the monks followed two milk maids who were searching for a dun coloured cow and found themselves on a peninsula formed by a loop in the River Wear. Thereupon, Cuthbert's coffin became immovable, which was taken as a sign that the new shrine should be built on that spot, which became the City of Durham. A more prosaic set of reasons for the selection of the peninsula is its highly defensible position, and that a community established there would enjoy the protection of the Earl of Northumbria, with whom the bishop at this time, Aldhun, had strong family connections. Today the street leading from The Bailey past the cathedral's eastern towers up to Palace Green is named Dun Cow Lane due to the miniature dun cows which used to graze in the pastures nearby. Initially, a very simple temporary structure was built from local timber to house the relics of Saint Cuthbert. The shrine was then transferred to a sturdier, probably still wooden, building known as the White Church. This church was itself replaced three years later in 998 by a stone building also known as the White Church, which in 1018 was complete except for its tower. Durham soon became a site of pilgrimage, encouraged by the growing cult of Saint Cuthbert. King Canute was one of the early pilgrims, and granted many privileges and estates to the Durham monks. The defensible position, flow of money from pilgrims and power embodied in the church at Durham all encouraged the formation of a town around the cathedral, which established the core of the city.

The present cathedral was designed and built under William de St Calais (also known as William of St. Carilef). In 1083 he founded the Benedictine Priory of St. Cuthbert at Durham and having ejected the secular canons (and their wives and children) who had been in charge of the church and shrine of St Cuthbert there, replaced them with monks from the monasteries of Wearmouth and Jarrow. The extensive lands of the church he divided between his own bishopric and the new Priory. He appointed Aldwin as the first prior. Bishop William of St. Calais demolished the old Saxon church, and on 11 August 1093, together with Prior Turgot of Durham (Aldwin's successor), he laid the foundation stone of the great new cathedral. The monks continued at their own expense to build the monastic buildings while the bishop took the responsibility for completing the building of the cathedral. The primary reason for the cathedral was to house the bodies of St. Cuthbert and the Venerable Bede. Since that time many major additions and reconstructions of parts of the building have been made, but the greater part of the structure remains the original Norman structure. Construction of the cathedral began in 1093, at the eastern end. The choir was completed by 1096. At the death of Bishop William of St. Calais on 2 January 1096, the Chapter House was ready enough to be used as his burial place. In 1104 the remains of St. Cuthbert were transferred with great ceremony to the new shrine in the new cathedral. The monks continued to look after the Shrine of St Cuthbert until the dissolution of the monasteries. (partially demolished in the 18th century). William of St. Carilef died in 1096 before the building was complete and passed responsibility to his successor, Ranulf Flambard, who also built Framwellgate Bridge, the earliest crossing of the River Wear from the town. Three bishops, William of St. Carilef, Ranulf Flambard and Hugh de Puiset, are all buried in the now rebuilt chapter house. In the 1170s Hugh de Puiset, after a false start at the eastern end where subsidence and cracking prevented work from continuing, added the Galilee Chapel at the west end of the cathedral. The five aisled building occupies the position of a porch and functioned as a Lady chapel with the great west door being blocked during the Medieval period by an altar to the Virgin Mary. The door is now blocked by the tomb of Bishop Thomas Langley. The Galilee Chapel also holds the remains of the Venerable Bede. The main entrance to the cathedral is on the northern side, facing the castle. In 1228 Richard le Poore, Bishop of Salisbury, was translated to Durham, having just rebuilt Salisbury Cathedral in the Gothic style. The towers also date from the early 13th century, but the central tower was damaged by lightning and replaced in two stages in the 15th century, the master masons being Thomas Barton and John Bell. The Shrine of Saint Cuthbert was located in the eastern apsidal end of the cathedral. The location of the inner wall of the apse is marked on the pavement and Saint Cuthbert's tomb is covered by a simple slab. However, an unknown monk wrote in 1593:
quote|[The shrine] was estimated to be one of the most sumptuous in all England, so great were the offerings and jewells bestowed upon it, and endless the miracles that were wrought at it, even in these last days.|Rites of Durham|

In 1794 the architect James Wyatt drew up extensive plans which would have drastically transformed the building, including the demolition of the Galilee Chapel, but the Chapter changed its mind just in time to prevent this happening. Wyatt renewed the 15th century tracery of the Rose Window, inserting plain glass to replace what had been blown out in a storm. In 1847 the architect Anthony Salvin removed Cosin's wooden organ screen, opening up the view of the east end from the nave, and in 1858 he restored the cloisters. The Victorian restoration of the cathedral's tower in 1859–60 was by the architect George Gilbert Scott, working with Edward Robert Robson (who went on to serve as Clerk of Works at the cathedral for six years). In 1874 Scott was responsible for the marble choir screen and pulpit in the Crossing. There is also a statue of William Van Mildert (1826–1836), the last bishop with palatine powers, and driving force behind the foundation of Durham University.

In the 1930s, under the inspiration of Dean Cyril Alington, work began on restoring the Shrine of Saint Cuthbert behind the high altar as an appropriate focus of worship and pilgrimage, and was resumed after the Second World War. The four candlesticks and overhanging tester (c. 1950) were designed by Ninian Comper. Two large batik banners representing Saints Cuthbert and Oswald, added in 2001, are the work of Thetis Blacker. Elsewhere in the building the 1930s and 1940s saw the addition of several new stained glass windows by Hugh Ray Easton. Mark Angus's Daily Bread window in the north side of the nave, dates from 1984. In the Galilee Chapel a wooden statue of the Annunciation by the Polish artist Josef Pyrz was added in 1992, the same year as Leonard Evetts' Stella Maris window. In 1986, the cathedral, together with the nearby Castle, became a World Heritage Site. The UNESCO committee classified the cathedral under criteria C (ii) (iv) (vi), reporting, "Durham Cathedral is the largest and most perfect monument of 'Norman' style architecture in England". In its discussion of the significance of the cathedral, Historic England provided this summary in their 1986 report: Nearby a plaque, first installed in 2011 and rededicated in 2017, commemorates the Scottish soldiers who died as prisoners in the cathedral after the Battle of Dunbar in 1650. The remains of some of these prisoners have now been identified in a mass grave uncoverered during building works in 2013 just outside the cathedral precinct near Palace Green. In 2004 two wooden sculptures by Fenwick Lawson, Pietà and Tomb of Christ, were placed in the Nine Altars Chapel, and in 2010 a new stained glass window of the Transfiguration by Tom Denny was dedicated in memory of Michael Ramsey, former Bishop of Durham and Archbishop of Canterbury. In 2016 former monastic buildings around the cloister, including the Monks' Dormitory and Prior's Kitchen, were re opened to the public as Open Treasure, an extensive exhibition displaying the cathedral's history and possessions. In November 2009 the cathedral featured in the Lumiere festival whose highlight was the "Crown of Light" illumination of the North Front of the cathedral with a 15 minute presentation that told the story of Lindisfarne and the foundation of cathedral, using illustrations and text from the Lindisfarne Gospels. The Lumiere festival was repeated in 2011, 2013, 2015, and 2017. Durham Priory held many manuscripts; in the 21st century, steps were under way to digitise the books, originating from the 6th to the 16th century. The project was being undertaken in a partnership by Durham University and Durham Cathedral. The cathedral church and the cloister is open to visitors during certain hours each day, unless it is closed for a special event. In 2017 a new "Open Treasure" exhibition area was opened which included a display of Saint Cuthbert's coffin and various relics; in 2019 a new exhibit was added, Mapping the World, featuring geographical items from the cathedral's archive.

There is some evidence that the aisle of the choir had the earliest rib vaults in England, as was argued by John Bilson, English architect, at the end of the nineteenth century. Since then it has been argued that other buildings like Lessay Abbey in north west France provided the early experimental ribs that created the high technical level shown in Durham. There is evidence in the clerestory walls of the choir that the high vault had ribs. There is controversy between John James and Malcolm Thurlby on whether these rib vaults were four part or six part, which remains unresolved. The building is notable for the ribbed vault of the nave, with some of the earliest transverse pointed arches supported on relatively slender composite piers alternated with massive drum columns, and lateral abutments concealed within the triforium over the aisles. These features appear to be precursors of the Gothic architecture of Northern France, possibly due to the Norman stonemasons responsible, although the building is considered Romanesque overall. The skilled use of the pointed arch and ribbed vault made it possible to cover far more elaborate and complicated ground plans than before. Buttressing made it possible to build taller buildings and open up the intervening wall spaces to create larger windows. The UNESCO World Heritage Site description makes this comment about the architectural style:Though some wrongly considered Durham Cathedral to be the first 'Gothic' monument (the relationship between it and the churches built in the Île de France region in the 12th century is not obvious), this building, owing to the innovative audacity of its vaulting, constitutes, as do Spire [Speyer] and Cluny, a type of experimental model which was far ahead of its time. Another United Nations web site states that"the use of stone 'ribs' forming pointed arches to support the ceiling of the nave was an important achievement, and Durham Cathedral is the earliest known example" [and] The nave vault of Durham Cathedral is the most significant architectural element because it marks a turning point in the history of architecture. The pointed arch was successfully used as a structural element for the first time here in this building. Semi circular arches were the type used prior to the adoption of the structural pointed arch—the limitations of which is that their height must be proportionate to their width". Saint Cuthbert's tomb lies at the east in the Feretory and was once an elaborate monument of cream marble and gold. It remains a place of pilgrimage. The fragments of St Cuthbert's coffin are exhibited at the cathedral.

In the 17th century Durham had an organ by Smith that was replaced in 1876 by 'Father' Willis (Henry Willis & Sons), with some pipes being reused in Durham Castle chapel. Harrison & Harrison worked on the organ from 1880, restored between 1905 and 1935, rebuilt again in 1970 with a new console, and adding a Classically voiced Positive division, and further refurbishments and minor changes in 1981 and 1996. The cases, designed by C. Hodgson Fowler and decorated by Clayton and Bell date from 1876 and are in the galleries of the choir.

The first organist recorded at Durham was John Brimley in 1557. Notable organists have included the composers Thomas Ebdon and Richard Hey Lloyd, editor of the Ancient and Modern Revised hymnbook John Dykes Bower, and (as sub organist) choral conductor David Hill. The current Master of the Choristers and Organist is Daniel Cook, having succeeded James Lancelot in 2017. The Sub Organist is Joseph Beech.

There is a regular choir of adult lay clerks, choral scholars and child choristers. The latter are educated at the Chorister School. Traditionally child choristers were all boys, but in November 2009 the cathedral admitted female choristers for the first time. The girls and the boys serve alternately, not as a mixed choir, except at major festivals such as Easter, Advent and Christmas when the two "top lines" come together.

There are ten bells in the central tower hung for change ringing in the English style. The tenor weighs , diameter tuned to D. Five of the bells (4, 7, 8, 9 and 10) are recognised as historically significant by Church Buildings Council (formerly the Council for the Care of Churches), they were cast in 1693. The remaining bells were cast in 1780 (3), 1781 (5), 1896 (6), 1980 (1 and 2).

In 1829 the Dean and Chapter authorised the engraving of a meridian line upon the floor and wall of the north cloister. A circular aperture about in the tracery of the adjoining window about 10 feet (3 m) above the level of the floor directs a beam of sunlight to fall upon the line at the precise time when the sun passes the meridian. It was constructed by William Lloyd Wharton, of Dryburn in the city, and Mr Carr, then Head Master of Durham School.

Durham Cathedral has been used as a filming location in a number of cinema and television productions. Because of its distinct Romanesque architecture, the cathedral has doubled as a number of fantasy locations in larger budget film productions, but it has also been seen as itself in a number of television programmes.

The first major appearance of the cathedral in a film was in the 1996 adaptation of a Thomas Hardy novel Jude. The film featured scenes of leading actor Christopher Eccleston working as a mason on the exterior of the cathedral and further scenes were shot inside the cathedral and on the adjoining Prebends Bridge. Elizabeth, starring Cate Blanchett, features the cathedral doubling as The Palace of Westminster and Whitehall. Durham Cathedral featured in the first two Harry Potter films (Philosopher's Stone and Chamber of Secrets) as Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry. The Cloisters appeared in a number of scenes as one of the school's courtyards, the Chapter House as Professor McGonagall's classroom and the Triforium upper levels as the Forbidden Corridor. The exterior architecture of the cathedral also heavily inspired the design of the Hogwarts model used in the films and a section of the model is noticeably styled off the cathedral with the addition of fantastical spires. The palace set design in Snow White and the Huntsman was largely based Durham Cathedral's architecture. The production team spent four days at the cathedral conducting 3D photography of the interior and used the data collected to build the sets both physical and digital. Most noticeably, the movie's throne room features columns patterned identically to those within the cathedral. Interior views of the cathedral were featured in the 2019 Marvel superhero film Avengers: Endgame as the indoor location of Asgard. A scene of Ken Loach's movie The Old Oak is filmed in Durham Cathedral.

Durham Cathedral features in a number of TV programmes. Some of its many appearances include the gameshow Treasurehunt and BBC staples like Songs of Praise and The Antiques Roadshow. Architectural historian Dan Cruickshank selected the cathedral as one of his four choices for the 2002 BBC television documentary Britain's Best Buildings. In September 2009, Sting performed a special Christmas concert at the cathedral. The concert aired in the United Kingdom on a BBC2 Imagine special and in the United States on a PBS Great Performances special. In November 2009, the concert was released on a DVD called A Winter's Night Live From Durham Cathedral. In 2010 the cathedral featured in Climbing Great Buildings which saw presenter Jonathan Foyle exploring the cathedral via climbing ropes. For an episode first broadcast in 2011, the BBC railway travelogue Great British Railway Journeys with Michael Portillo visited Durham and the cathedral. Following a Bradshaw's guide, he discusses local Victorian politics highlighted in the guide and meets with the Cathedral Choristers. Richard Wilson: On the Road saw actor Richard Wilson visit the cathedral on this travelogue show following the Shell Guides from the 1930s. The Grayson Perry documentary, All Man, culminated in the unveiling of his artwork in the cathedral. The fourth episode of Britain's Great Cathedrals with Tony Robinson, broadcast on Channel Five, featured Durham Cathedral as its subject. In it, Robinson explored the architecture, the history of the bishops and the history of pilgrimage at the cathedral. Following the completion of restoration on the cathedral's tower in May 2019, BBC Breakfast broadcast from the tower in as part of its reopening to the public. The cathedral features noticeably in two Catherine Cookson TV dramas, The Tide of Life and The Wingless Bird. In the latter of these, the cathedral and the surrounding riverbanks also feature prominently in its promotional material. It also featured on TV in a number of episodes of Inspector George Gently with both interior and exterior scenes.

Letitia Landon's atmospheric poem, Durham Cathedral, appeared in Fisher's Drawing Room Scrap Book, 1835, to an engraving of a painting of the interior by Thomas Allom. It is also featured in the 2023 book by Benjamin Myers. The book is called Cuddy and is a history of St Cuthbert but obviously it is creative non fiction.

Durham Cathedral used to display a scale replica of itself made entirely out of Lego. It was created as part of an award winning fundraising campaign to support the creation of Open Treasure, and started in July 2013. It was completed just over three years later in July 2016, and was on display in the cathedral's Undercroft foyer between the Undercroft Restaurant and the Cathedral Shop. The replica Cathedral is made up of 300,000 Lego bricks, standing 1.52 m tall and 3.66 m long. It also features a modelled interior, with the nave, quire, the organ, and stained glass windows all recreated in Lego. Its creation was funded by donation, with a donation of £1 per Lego brick. It raised £300,000 as part of the public fundraising campaign in support of the creation of Open Treasure, the cathedral's new museum in its Claustral buildings. Visitors who donated came from 182 countries across the world. The cathedral worked with a company called Bright Bricks on the design and recruited a team of Lego volunteers who co ordinated the build of the model and visitor donations. The surrounding media coverage and marketing campaign garnered further support to the Lego project, especially from local businesses and organisations, and featured celebrity support such as that of Janina Ramirez, George Clarke and Jeremy Vine. Historian and television presenter Johnathon Foyle had the honour of laying the first brick. As part of the project, a series of five Lego animated shorts were produced showcasing the history of the cathedral. North east based filmmaker Matt James Smith worked with the cathedral to create the shorts.