Санджиовезе: Кровь Юпитера и душа Тосканы

Wine making grape

Sangiovese (,/s//æ//n//dʒ//oʊ/'/v//eɪ//z//i/, also /UK// //dʒ//i//oʊ/'/ //, // //dʒ//i//ə/'/ /, /US/,/s//ɑː//n// //, /,/s//ɑː//n//dʒ//oʊ/'/v//iː//z//, // /'/v//iː//s/, sandʒoˈveːze) is a red Italian wine grape variety that derives its name from the Latin sanguis Jovis, "the blood of Jupiter". Sangiovese Grosso, used for traditionally powerful and slow maturing red wines, is primarily grown in the central regions of Italy, particularly in Tuscany, where it is the dominant grape variety. Here, Sangiovese thrives in various subregions, including Chianti, Montalcino, and Montepulciano,
whose diverse terroirs, winemakers put to good use to craft wines that reflect the land's unique nuances. Sangiovese's ability to express terroir and age gracefully has earned it a revered status among wine enthusiasts worldwide, cementing its place as one of Italy's most cherished grape varieties. Because of its distinctive character and versatility, Sangiovese is the singular or primary grape variety used in iconic Italian wines from Tuscany such as bold and age worthy Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, to vibrant and fruity wines like Morellino di Scansano, Carmignano and Chianti Classico. Sangiovese is also cultivated in other parts of central Italy, such as Umbria and Marche, where it is sometimes blended for the to production of notable wines like Sagrantino di Montefalco and Rosso Conero. And while its stronghold is in the central region of the country, it is also grown in smaller quantities in regions like Emilia Romagna, Lombardy, and even as far south as Calabria where it can be used to make varietal wines such as Sangiovese di Romagna and some of the modern "Super Tuscan" wines like Tignanello,
a blend of 80% Sangiovese 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc or 'Colore' Bibi Graetz made with 100% Sangiovese from old vines. Sangiovese was already well known by the 16th century. Recent DNA profiling by José Vouillamoz of the Istituto Agrario di San Michele all’Adige suggests that Sangiovese's ancestors are Ciliegiolo and Calabrese Montenuovo. The former is well known as an ancient variety in Tuscany, the latter is an almost extinct relic from Calabria, the toe of Italy. At least fourteen Sangiovese clones exist, of which Brunello is one of the best regarded. An attempt to classify the clones into Sangiovese grosso (including Brunello) and Sangiovese piccolo families has gained little evidential support. Young Sangiovese has fresh fruity flavours of strawberry and a little spiciness, but it readily takes on oaky, even tarry, flavours when aged in barrels. While not as aromatic as other red wine varieties such as Pinot noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah, Sangiovese often has a flavour profile of sour red cherries with earthy aromas and tea leaf notes. Wines made from Sangiovese usually have medium plus tannins and high acidity.

Early theories on the origin of Sangiovese dated the grape to the time of Roman winemaking. Since these grape varieties are spread over different parts of Italy (Apulia, Calabria, Sicily and Tuscany), this confirmed by genetic methods that Sangiovese is a key variety in the pedigree of red Italian grape varieties. Harvests in Italy have traditionally begun after September 29, with modern harvest often taking place in mid late October. A longer growing season gives the grapes time to develop richness and potential body. However, in cool vintages this can result in the grapes having high levels of acidity and harsh, unripened tannins. In regions (like some areas of Tuscany) that are prone to rainfall in October, there is a risk for rot due to the Sangiovese grape's thin skin. with more than planted to one of the many clonal variation of the grape. Throughout Italy it is known under a variety of names including Brunello, Morellino, Nielluccio and Prugnolo Gentile. It is the main grape used in the popular red wines of Tuscany, where it is the solitary grape of Brunello di Montalcino and the primary component of the wines of Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and many "Super Tuscans". Outside Tuscany, it is found throughout central Italy where it places an important role in the Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) wines of Torgiano Rosso Riserva in Umbria, Conero in Marche and the Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) wines of Montefalco Rosso in Umbria and Rosso Piceno in Marche. Significant Sangiovese plantings can also be found outside central Italy in Lombardia, Emilia Romagna, Valpolicella and as far south as Campania and Sicily. In 1888, his grandson Ferruccio Biondi Santi—a veteran soldier who fought under Giuseppe Garibaldi during the Risorgimento—released the first "modern version" of Brunello di Montalcino, which was aged for over a decade in large wood barrels. By the mid 20th century, this 100% varietal Sangiovese was eagerly being sought out by critics and wine drinkers alike. The Montalcino region seems to have ideal conditions for ripening Sangiovese with the potential for full ripeness achievable even on north facing slopes. These slopes tend to produce lighter and more elegant wines that then those made from vineyards on south and southwest facing slopes. Like in California, plantings of Sangiovese in Washington have declined in recent years to in 2011. In Canada, there are less than of Sangiovese planted, mostly in Ontario where some producers in Niagara on the Lake are experimenting with ice wine versions of the grape. A small amount of the grape can also be found in British Columbia. For many years, this single clone (H6V9) imported from the University of California Davis was the only available clone for Australian winemakers. The first large scale commercial planting of the grape was in the 1980s when Penfolds expanded their Kalimna vineyard in the Barossa Valley. As the availability of clones expanded (currently 10 available commercially as of 2011), so did plantings of Sangiovese with in 2008.

Wines made from Sangiovese tend to exhibit the grape's naturally high acidity as well as moderate to high tannin content and light color. Blending can have a pronounced effect on enhancing or tempering the wine's quality. The dominant nature of Cabernet can sometimes have a disproportionate influence on the wine, even overwhelming Sangiovese character with black cherry, black currant, mulberry and plum fruit. Even percentages as low as 4 to 5% of Cabernet Sauvignon can overwhelm the Sangiovese if the fruit quality is not high. As the wine ages, some of these Cabernet dominant flavours can soften and reveal more Sangiovese character. Different regions will impart varietal character on the wine with Tuscan Sangiovese having a distinctive bitter sweet component of cherry, violets and tea. In their youth, Tuscan Sangiovese can have tomato savoriness to it that enhances its herbal component. Californian examples tend to have more bright, red fruit flavours with some Zinfandel like spice or darker fruits depending on the proportion of Cabernet blended in. Argentine examples showing a hybrid between the Tuscan and California Sangiovese with juicy red fruit wines that end on a bitter cherry note.