Дейр-эль-Балах: История и современность палестинского города

a city

Deir al Balah or Deir al Balah (دير البلح) is a Palestinian city in the central Gaza Strip and the administrative capital of the Deir al Balah Governorate of the State of Palestine. It is located over south of Gaza City. Ahmad Kurd, a Hamas member, was elected mayor in late January 2005.

"Deir al Balah", which in Arabic translates as the "Monastery of the Date Palm", was named after the grove of date palms that lay west of the city. Its name dates back to the late 19th century, before which the city was locally known as "Deir Mar Jiryis" or "Deir al Khidr" and "Deir Darum" in Ottoman records. The mosque in Deir al Balah which bears his name is traditionally believed by locals to contain his tomb.

Up until the later Ottoman era, Deir al Balah was referred to in Arabic as "Darum" or "Darun" which derived from the settlement's Crusader era Latin name "Darom" or "Doron." That name was explained by the Crusader chronicler William of Tyre as a corruption of domus Graecorum, "house of the Greeks" (dar ar rum). More recently, the eighteenth century scholar Albert Schultens supposed its roots are the Ancient Hebrew name "Darom" or "Droma", from the Hebrew root for "south", which referred to the area south of Lydda, i. e. the southern parts of the coastal plain and Judean foothills together with the northern Negev Desert. During early Arab rule, "ad Darum" or "ad Dairan" was the name of the southern subdistrict of Bayt Jibrin, a corruption of the Aramaic name of the region, Daroma.

Deir al Balah is situated in the central Gaza Strip, along the coastline of the eastern Mediterranean Sea. Its city center is about east of the coast while the ancient site of Darum was uncovered to the south of central Deir al Balah. Nearby localities include Nuseirat Camp and Bureij Camp to the north, Maghazi Camp to the northeast and Wadi as Salqa to the south. Khan Yunis is to Deir al Balah's south and Gaza City is located to the north. The city has absorbed the coastal Deir al Balah Refugee Camp, although it remains outside of Deir al Balah's municipal administration. While the total land area was recorded as 14,735 dunams (14.7 km² or 1,473.5 hectares) in 1997, the total built up areas of the city consist of between 7,000 and 8,000 dunams (7–8 km² or 700 800 hectares.) Deir al Balah is divided into 29 administrative areas. During the reign of King Ramesses II (1303–1213 BC), Deir al Balah became the easternmost of six garrisoned fortresses in the Eastern Mediterranean. The string of fortresses began with the Sinai fort in the west, and continued through the "Way of Horus" military road to Canaan. The square shaped fortress of Deir al Balah had four towers at each corner and a reservoir. The archaeological excavations at the Egyptian period site were executed between 1972 and 1982, during Israel's occupation, and headed by Trude Dothan. After the conclusion of the excavations the area was used for farming purposes and is now covered by vegetable gardens and fruit orchards while the main findings can be seen in Israeli museums like the Israel Museum in Jerusalem and the Hecht Museum in Haifa. Similar cultural development is also attested at Tall al Ajjul at that time, also in the Gaza strip.

During Byzantine rule, the first hermitage in Palestine was established by the early Christian monk Hilarion at the site of modern day Deir al Balah. Hilarion initially built a small hut there, but during the reign of Constantius II (337–361) he set up the hermitage. Towards the end of his life, the monastery grew and began to attract numerous visitors. Hilarion resided at the monastery for a total of 22 years until his departure for Cyprus where he died in 371 AD. The hermitage was divided into several small cells constructed of mud brick and palm tree branches. According to local tradition and observations from Western travelers in the 19th century, the prayer hall of the Monastery of Hilarion is currently occupied by the Mosque of al Khidr. French explorer Victor Guérin noted that two marble columns in the mosque were possibly parts of the Byzantine era monastery.

In 632, during the early period of Islamic rule in Arabia, the Muslim commander Usama ibn Zayd launched a raid against Byzantine held Darum, which referred not to Deir al Balah specifically, but to the area south of Lydda which included modern day Deir al Balah. The site was one of the first places in Palestine to be annexed by the Rashidun Caliphate following the conquest of Gaza by Amr ibn al 'As in 634. Throughout early Muslim Arab rule and until the arrival of the Crusaders in the late 11th century, "Darum" normally referred to the southern district of Jund Filastin whose capital fluctuated between the towns of Bayt Jibrin or Hebron.

Deir al Balah was built on the ruins of the Crusader fort of Darom (also referred to as "Doron") which was built by King Amalric I. The exact date of the fort's construction is unknown, although it was likely erected after 1153 following Amalric's capture of Ascalon to the north from the Fatimid Caliphate. Amalric used Darom as a launching point for several unsuccessful military campaigns against Fatimid Egypt. In addition to its role as a frontier fort on the border of Egypt, Darom also served as an administrative center charged with collecting taxes from the southern areas of the kingdom and customs from caravans and travelers coming from Egypt. It was deemed a permanent threat by the rulers of Egypt. The population of the village consisted of indigenous Eastern Orthodox Christians allied to and protected by the Crusader administration and garrison based in the fort. The inhabitants were considered lower class, but integral members of society by the Crusaders of European or mixed descent. Because Darom was absent of Greek bishops, in 1168 Pope Alexander III gave the Latin Patriarch of Jerusalem direct jurisdiction over the dioceses, putting the largely Greek Orthodox inhabitants under the authority of the Catholic Church. Following Amalric's withdrawal from his fifth offensive against Egypt in 1170, Muslim general Saladin, fighting on behalf of the Fatimids, attacked and besieged the fortress as part of his foray into the Crusader Kingdom of Jerusalem. Despite initial gains, Darom was not captured or destroyed. After the Muslim army defeated the Crusaders in the decisive Battle of Hattin in 1187, their leader Saladin, by then the independent sultan of the Ayyubid dynasty, advanced south and captured both Ascalon and Darom by 1188. His first order was the fort's demolition, but he later decided against destroying it. It hosted a garrison commanded by the emir (commander) Alam ad Din Qaysar and served as a store for supplies and ammunition. The Ayyubids rebuilt the fortress soon after in order to use it as a bridgehead to reconquer territories lost in Palestine during the Third Crusade. Nonetheless, in 1196, Sultan al Aziz Uthman decided to have it demolished in case of its capture by the Crusaders. According to 15th century historian al Maqrizi, this decision resulted in public resentment since travelers and merchants had significantly benefited from the fort's protection.

Following its demolition, it is not known how long Darum remained deserted, but it was eventually resettled during Mamluk rule which began in 1250. Along with Karatiyya and Bayt Jibrin, Darum was an amal (district) of the Province of Gaza with its own wali (governor).

Sometime prior to the Ottoman conquest of Palestine in 1516 or in the beginning years of Ottoman rule, Darum gained the additional name of "Deir" as in "Deir Darum" after its Byzantine era monastery. The village continued to thrive during the early Ottoman era in Palestine which is attributed to the urban infrastructure originally established by the Crusaders. Its continued importance also stemmed from its close proximity to Gaza and its position on the former Via Maris trade route. The first Ottoman tax census in 1525 revealed Deir al Balah was a relatively large village with a religiously mixed population of 87 Christian families and 56 Muslim families. With an estimated population of 1,500, Pierre Jacotin named the village Deir K Helleh on his map from 1799. In 1838, Deir el Belah was noted as a Muslim village in the Gaza district. A substantial part of Deir al Balah's inhabitants died in 1862 because of stagnant drinking water originating from the town's swamps. The swamps were seasonal, forming each winter as a result of flooding which failed to breach the sandstone ridge. In 1878, the PEF's Survey of Western Palestine noted Deir al Balah had grown to become a large village of mud houses "with wells and a small tower". At the time, it served as a see of the Greek Orthodox Church of Jerusalem.

Deir al Balah was captured by the British Army following the surrender of Khan Yunis on 28 February 1917. By April an aerodrome and an army camp were established there and Deir al Balah became a launching point for British forces against Ottoman held Gaza and Beersheba to the north and northeast, respectively. Of the 25 British war cemeteries dating from World War I, one of the six largest was built in Deir al Balah in March 1917. It continued to be used until March 1918 and contains a total of 724 graves. In the 1945 statistics, Deir al Balah had a population of 2,560; 40 Christians and 2,520 Muslims, Of this, 327 dunams were for citrus and bananas, 472 plantations and irrigable land, 14,438 used for cereals, while 39 dunams were built up land.

In the lead up to the 1948 Arab Israeli War, residents of Deir al Balah participated in a local attack against the nearby kibbutz of Kfar Darom, despite being discouraged by Egyptian Army officers, but they were repelled and suffered casualties. During the war, Egypt captured the town along with other towns in an area that became known as the Gaza Strip. The Egyptians later established a sharia court system that held jurisdiction over personal affairs. Egyptian rule introduced relative prosperity to Deir al Balah. The town witnessed a booming citrus industry made possible by the discovery of a substantial reservoir of ground water in the vicinity. In the name of pan Arabism, the Egyptian state officially merged with the Gaza Strip and Syria between 1959 and 1961 as part of the short lived United Arab Republic (UAR). The project fell apart before significant integration occurred and the legal status of the Gaza Strip was mostly an afterthought during the attempt to create a unified Arab state, with the Strip and its citizens not explicitly being mentioned in the proclamation declaring the founding of the UAR or in the UAR's provisional constitution.

During the Six Day War in June 1967, Deir al Balah's mayor Sulaiman al Azayiza briefly led local resistance against the incoming Israeli Army until formally surrendering the city shortly thereafter. The Israeli authorities took control of the springs, an important irrigation source. This move combined with increasing competition from Israeli citrus farmers, damaged the local citrus industry. During the course of the Israeli occupation, Deir al Balah's urban areas extended into lands designated for agriculture, largely as a result of building restrictions which hindered organized expansion. which formally ended in 1993 with the Oslo Accords between the Palestine Liberation Organization (PLO) and Israel. In 1994 Deir al Balah was the first city to officially come under the control of the Palestinian National Authority as a result of the Gaza–Jericho Agreement. The city has been frequently targeted in Israeli military incursions since the Second Intifada in 2000, largely due to Qassam rocket strikes by Palestinian militants. During factional clashes across the Gaza Strip in June 2007 which ended with Hamas gaining control over that territory, at least four paramilitaries from Hamas and Fatah were killed in Deir al Balah. On 2 January 2009, Deir al Balah was shelled by the Israeli Army as part of its month long offensive Operation Cast Lead. In the beginning of December, during the second month of the 2023 Israel Hamas War, IDF tanks cut off the passage from Khan Yunis to Deir al Balah. The IDF campaign, which was intended to target members of Hamas in the center region of the Gaza Strip, brought down multiple apartment buildings. While resulting in the death of a Hamas commander, the bombing campaign has overwhelmed the Shuhada Al Aqsa Hospital staff with patients. Doctors described the bombing campaign on December 3 as a bloody day. In December 2023, the Jaffa Mosque (مَسْجِد يَافَا ) was destroyed during Israeli Bombardment in Deir al Balah .

White marble pillar shafts were built into the walls of some houses in old Deir al Balah. They resembled the medieval era pillars in the Temple Mount ("Haram ash Sharif") in Jerusalem.

The Mosque of al Khidr (also called "Maqam al Khader") is 24.3 feet (7 m) by 53.4 feet (16 m) and was built on the site of a Byzantine monastery. The northern and southern walls were buttressed and the eastern wall has three apses. The Survey of Western Palestine related in 1875 that there were Greek inscriptions on one of the steps leading to the door at the southern wall while on the floor was a broken stone slab marked by two Maltese crosses, apparently resembling a tombstone. Further slabs and Greek inscriptions were found in the eastern part of the mosque and in the courtyard. In the center is a tomb made of modern masonry that tradition claims is the tomb of Saint George ("Mar Jirjis") or al Khidr, as he is known in Arabic.

The Deir al Balah Governorate's principal economic activity is services, accounting for 67.4% of the labor force. Commerce, hospitality and retail account for 12.9%, agriculture and fishing 10.1%, transportation and communication 5.4% and manufacturing 3.4%. In 2009 the unemployment rate in the governorate was 35.2% while the labor force participation rate was 38.7%. However, some 3,550 trees were uprooted or bulldozed by the Israeli Army in the early years of the Second Intifada beginning in 2000. There were an estimated 16,500 palms in Deir al Balah in 2003. In addition to being a local delicacy, date cultivation constitutes one of the principal sources of income for many of Deir al Balah's residents. The particular type of date that is cultivated in the area is known as "Hayani." It has a distinctly red color. The city has a small fishing industry and is the site of one of four wharfs in the Gaza Strip. In 2007 there were about 76 active fishing vessels employed by 550 fishermen. From 2000 to 2006, during the Second Intifada, income from fishing was halved. In order to alleviate losses resulting from a fishing limit off the coast imposed by the Israeli Navy following Hamas's victory in the 2006 parliamentary elections, the Palestinian Authority Department of Fisheries has sought to construct eight artificial reefs in both Deir al Balah and Gaza City.

According to the 1997 PCBS census, 87.7% of residents in Deir al Balah over the age of 10 were literate. The number of people who finished elementary education was 5,740, while 5,964 finished primary education and 5,289 completed secondary school. In higher education, 1,763 people attained associate degrees, 1,336 attained bachelor's degrees and 97 attained higher degrees. Educational services in Deir al Balah are under the jurisdiction of the Khan Yunis Directorate of Higher Education. There were a total of 85 schools in the Deir al Balah Governorate in 2007 08 according to the PNA's Ministry of Education and Higher Education. The Palestinian government operated 39 school while four were privately owned. The remainder were run by UNRWA and were mostly located in refugee camps in Deir al Balah's vicinity. The total number of students in the governorate was 67,693, of which 50.3% were male 49.7% female. The Palestine Technical College, a vocational and technical college founded in 1992, is located in Deir al Balah. A library was added to the campus in 1998.

Deir al Balah's first village council was established in 1946 and an elected local government continued to administer the city until 1982 when the Israeli military authorities dissolved the council and appointed a mayor. In 1994 Deir al Balah gained the status of a city by the Palestinian Authority (PNA). The Palestinian president, Yasser Arafat, appointed Samir Mohammed Azayiza as mayor until 2000 when he replaced him with Sami Abu Salim, a wealthy businessman from the city. The services and functions of the municipality include city planning, infrastructure maintenance and repair, providing utilities, school administration and garbage collection.