Kashmiri cuisine

Culinary traditions of Kashmir, India

Kashmiri cuisine is the cuisine of the Kashmir Valley. The cuisine has strong influences from neighbouring regions in central Asia and the Indian subcontinent. Rice has been a staple food in Kashmir since ancient times. The equivalent for the phrase "bread and butter" in Kashmiri is haakh batta (greens and rice). Kashmiri cuisine is generally meat heavy. The region has, per capita, the highest mutton consumers in the subcontinent. In a majority of Kashmiri cooking, bread is not part of the meal. Bread is generally only eaten with tea in the morning or evening. Cockscomb flower, called "mawal" in Kashmiri, is boiled to prepare a red food colouring, as used in certain dishes. Pandit cuisine uses the mildly pungent Kashmiri red chili powder as a spice, as well as ratanjot to impart colour to certain dishes like rogan josh. Kashmiri Muslim cuisine uses chilies in moderate quantity, and avoid hot dishes at large meals. Meat along with rice, some vegetables and salad are prepared on special occasions like Eid al Fitr.

From the mythical Mahabharata to the Iranian invasion of Kashmir (which was a part of Gandhara) by Darius in 516 BC, to the Mauryans who established Srinagara to the Kushan Empire to the invasion of Kashmir by Timur in 1398, the culture and cuisine of Kashmiris are linked to the greater Indian, Persian and Central Asian cuisines mixed with local innovations and availabilities of ingredients. The term kabab is Arabic in origin, korma has Turkish roots, and rogan josh, yakhaen, ab gosht, rista and goshtaba stem from Persian sources.

There is a legend that aeons ago Kashmir valley was a vast mountain lake. The soil contains remains of fresh water fish and fossil oysters and the black shells of water chestnut may be found in layers embedded in the earth at a height of 457 metres above the level of the valley. Since Paleolithic times, serpents were worshipped and buried with a supply of insects in their graves as a provision for their future life. This upper Paleolithic engraving depicts chase and game engagements of the prehistoric population. Recent investigations by archaeologists  at Overa valley of Pahalgam have revealed stone tools of Paleolithic ages, including single edged stone blades used for preying of animals.

Even before the Megalithic culture that followed the Neolithic period, there is evidence of wheat, barley and lentil cultivation. The Kashmir Valley contains multiple sites of the so called Northern Neolithic, possibly dating as early as 3000 BC when climate became warmer. Stone hearths have been found at ground levels, near the mouth of pits. The art producing behaviour of Neolithic men is witnessed in a hunting scene, with human, a dog and a sun path diagram. At the Gufkral Neolithic site 41 km southwest of Srinagar, archaeologists have confirmed settlers were engaged in wild game as well as domestication of animals. The animals that were known at the time were wild sheep, wild goat, wild cattle, red deer, wolf, Himalayan Ibex and bear. In the Phase IB of Neolithic occupation, some new additions included cattle and common peas. On the basis of the presence of the Emmer wheat (Triticumdicoccum) crop at Kanispur, seven kilometres east of Baramulla, contacts of Harappans with the Neolithic Kashmir has been suggested. Handis (metal pots), flat plates, pedestalled cups and edged bowls have been reported in large numbers from the excavated sites of Harwan, Kanispur and Semthan. The Kushan period is characterized by a double cropping pattern, suggesting a change in agricultural practices associated with a population recovery following a post Neolithic decline. Finds of Vitis vinifera (Common Grape Vine), Emblica officinalis (Indian Gooseberry), Ziziphus nummularia (Wild Jujube), Juglans regia (English Walnut) and Prunus amygdalus (Almond) suggest that horticulture and foraging played an important role in the diet of the occupants. Kashmir was connected to the southern silk route via Gilgit and Yasin valley at Tashkurghan. When the Chinese Tang Dynasty successfully defeated the Tibetan forces and entered little Palur in October 722 AD, Kashmir was credited for providing agricultural supplies essential to sustaining the Chinese troops stationed in Gilgit valley. They drank water brought by a Muslim, ate food that was cooked in a Muslim boat and even Muslim foster mothers were allowed to feed their children. Moreover, when Yusuf Shah Chak, the last sovereign king of Kashmir signed a treaty with emperor Akbar recognising his symbolic sovereignty in 1586 one of the terms was that the mint, the saffron and game would remain under imperial control.

The Duke of Bedford helped to send 10,000 trout eggs from the UK in 1899 but they perished on the way. A second consignment arrived from Scotland the next year. There were 137 private fish farms in just Anantnag district, which was declared as the 'Trout District of India'.

Poultry farms are set on European standards, as Kashmir has similar geo climatic conditions. Using permaculture and no dig gardening technique, free range eggs are being sold every day. People collect chick varieties like Kalinga brown, Vanraja, Kashmir Commercial Layer, etc. to dish out a regular supply of organic brown eggs. The Kashmir Duck (batook) is reared for its eggs in all districts of the valley with highest population in Bandipora district, followed by Kupwara, Barmulla, Srinagar and others. Eggs of Kashmir duck are either white or green shelled and weigh 66.20 g on average.

People in Kashmir eat different varieties of rice including the nutty and fragrant Mushk Budji, grown in the higher reaches of the Kashmir valley. In February 2022, Mushk Budji rice got the Geographical Indication (GI) tag. This cooked rice is unique and possesses a harmonious blend of taste, aroma and rich organoleptic properties. The small unpolished grains are sought for their superior texture and taste.

The most important and frequently used Kashmiri vegetables are: haakh (collard greens or kale), monj Haak ( kohlrabi), tsochael(mallow), bamchoont (quince), kral mound (shepherds purse), saze posh (holly hock), nadur (lotus stem), praan (shallots), aubuj (sorrel), mawal (cockscomb), wushkofur (camphor), tila gogul (mustard) and gor (water chestnut). The floating vegetable garden on the Dal Lake is the second largest wholesale market in the world. Men, young and old, on their wooden boats, argue about the price of plump pumpkins and gourds as they share cigarettes or hookahs. The water of Kashmir is sweeter, and that affects the taste and flavour of vegetables. Local accounts date its discovery to the 15th century sultan Zain ul Abidin, who was introduced to the chewy delicacy while on a shikara ride on the Gil Sar lake located in the exteriors of Srinagar. Sun dried vegetables, locally known as hokh syun, are consumed as fresh produce dwindles. During summer, vegetables are peeled, chopped, salted and sun dried to preserve them for winter. In the Charar Sharief area of central Kashmir, dried pears, locally known as tang haech are considered a delicacy. Many of Mughal Emperor Akbar's feasts in the 16th century featured shallots. Kashmir valley is the only place in India where asparagus grows. Until the 1960s, it was grown widely in Kashmir at Pulwama, Budgam, Rajbagh, Tangmarg and Gulmarg. As of now the area of asparagus cultivation is restricted to Tangmarg and Gulmarg. Sugar was exclusively imported from erstwhile united Punjab up to 1947 but was among the costliest imports to Kashmir. The then Dogra government suggested cultivating sugar maple and beetroot sugar but it could not materialise. In the past, when sugar was not imported, people used honey. Delicate nectar of the acacia flowers makes for honey in Tral, Verinag and other locations. Sidr honey considered one of the most distinguished types of honey in the world, is obtained from Sidr (jujube) trees in the Kashmir Valley.

Kashmiri apple is famous for its juiciness and distinct flavour as well. In 2019 alone, Kashmir produced over 1.9 million metric tonnes of apples, the highest among Indian states. Kashmiri walnuts are a great source of nutrients and widely in demand across the globe. Muhammad Quli Afshar brought cherries from Kabul and planted them during Akbar's time. They are loaded with minerals, vitamins and plant compounds. Gassu area on the Srinagar outskirts is known for strawberry (istaber) harvesting. Orange cultivation for commercial purposes was introduced a few decades before in the Urossa village in Uri. The climate and soil is relatively warmer than the rest of Kashmir and conducive for the crop. The lemons are better and juicier than Punjab lemons.

Holstein Friesian (HF) and Jersey cows were introduced in Kashmir several decades ago, producing 4 million litres of milk per day. Organic Kashmiri butter wrapped in Chinar leaves was common in the yesteryears, but is now sold only by a few. A traditionally ripened Himalayan cheese is called the milk chapati or maish krej in Kashmiri.

One version of the origin of kababs is the one in which Turkish soldiers were first known to grill chunks of meat on open fires. Kashmir's kababs are cooked with local spices and accompanied with dips:
Lahradar kabab, also known as lahabi/moachi kabab. Minced mutton classically shaped like a boat with a depression in the centre, cooked in curd based mild spicy gravy. Once softened, the meat is soaked overnight in egg and at least nine different seasonings and spices, including onions, red chili powder, nutmeg, garam masala, ginger, garlic and coriander. It is typically served with yoghurt. Kokur lahabdar kabab ruwangan, chicken kebabs in rich tomato gravy. Shammi kabab, wazwan style mutton patties with ground chickpeas, egg and mild Kashmiri spices. Champ, lamb chops. Nadur maund, Kashmir's answer to hash browns, lotus root ginger and mint patties with a dash of eclectic Kashmiri spices. Buzith tschaman, grilled paneer marinated in yoghurt, cream and aniseed. It is said a poet wandering in the lovely forests of Kashmir, cooked this dish out in the open. Buzith gaad, charcoal grilled fish marinated with Kashmiri spices. Buzith olav, thool, maaz etc., the round oven baked clay pot kangir works as an oven for baking food items such as eggs, potatoes, pea beans, chunks of meat etc. Talith gaad, fish marinated in black pepper, cumin and Kashmiri chilli and then shallow fried. Gaad talith ta badaam, fried fish with almonds. Talith kokur, Fried chicken. Chicken/mutton/beef tujji, meat marinated in Kashmiri red chillies and aniseed powder, barbequed to perfection. Kaleeng, thick membrane that covers sheep's head,skull and all, chopped coarsely and set to cook with spices and minimal liquid over a low fire for hours. While the bread is there in all the seasons for the breakfast, its accompaniments change. Harisa zafrani, sprinkled with Kashmiri saffron. A maker in Aali Kadal was known for this peculiar dish. Luchi & halwa, by luchi makers outside Kheer Bhawani shrine. Makai vath, cooked granular maize meal. Used to be a staple food in the unirrigated highland villages, where rice could not be grown. Cooked as a staple food in some hilly villages of Kashmir, where rice or maize is not easily available or grown. Tabakhmaaz, rib racks in ghee with sweet fat lodged between lacquered slips of meat Kashmiri Hindus commonly refer to this dish as Qabargah. It seems to have travelled from Kazakhstan where it is known by its Pandit name, Qabargah. Tang ta lahabi kabab, whole Kashmiri pears and mutton kababs that often go with a tomato yoghurt gravy. Waaza kokur, whole chicken cooked in saffron gravy with mild Kashmiri spices. Dani phoul, mutton shank. Aab gosh, also known as dodhe maaz. A famous milk based curry cooked in spices and ghee over a low flame. Ten litres of pure cow milk is reduced to one and then mixed with the mutton. Methi maaz, mutton intestines flavoured with a spice mixture containing dried fenugreek (methi) leaves. Waazeh hedar, Kashmiri wazwan style mushrooms. Marchwangan kormeh, meat cooked with spices and yogurt and mostly using Kashmiri red chillies and hot in taste. Kokur marchawangan kormeh, Chicken cooked in red hot chilly gravy. Danival kormeh lamb cooked with coriander or parsley. Kokur danival kormeh, chicken cooked in curd based gravy, flavoured with saffron and fresh coriander.

Tsatt/maaz rass, mutton stock with mutton pieces flavoured with aromatic spices and salt. Channa rass, easily made chickpea soup.

Qaliya, a mutton delicacy in which all flavours are included, excluding red chilly powder. Kokur qaliya, chicken qaliya. Shab Deg: dish cooked with turnip and meat/duck/chicken/beef and balls of ground meat, left to simmer overnight. Dani, marrow bone in gravy. Matschgand, lamb meatballs in a gravy tempered with red chillies. A a lot of emphasis is put on the shape of the meat (oblong and not round) and the colour of the gravy. Methi matsch, muttonballs with fenugreek leaves that have been boiled, crushed or liquidized into a paste. Matsch ta tser, lamb fingers with apricot. The dish looks beautiful when laid on the table as the apricots remain yellow and the minced meat red making it very colourful. Mith ta golemach, minced meat balls with fenugreek. Matsch ta phul gupi, minced lamb fingers with cauliflower. Matsch ta olav, lamb fingers cooked with potatoes. Tser kofta, minced mutton balls with an apricot inside. Nadir, oluv ta maaz, lotus stems, potatoes and mutton cooked on low heat and gravy thickened with garam masala and caraway seeds. Kokur aloobukhar korma, chicken cooked with dried plums with Kashmiri ingredients. Gand ta kokur, chicken and onion curry. Kokur ta torreil, chicken with snake gourd. Bam chunth ta maaz, quince with lamb. Gogjee aare ta maaz, sundried Turnips with Lamb. Bote tser maaz, lamb and dried apricots. Haand ta kokur, dandelion greens and chicken. Haand ta maaz, dry dandelion and meat curry. Old age Kashmiri recipe for lactating mothers. Haakh maaz, Kashmiri saag cooked with mutton. Monje ta maaz, Kashmiri style knol khol and mutton. Kashmiris don't only eat knol khol, its leaves are mandatory. Gole al syun, pumpkin cooked with lamb. Torreil ta maaz, ridged gourd with mutton. Monje qaliya, kohlrabi with mutton. Rogan josh, a lamb based dish, cooked in a gravy seasoned with liberal amounts of Kashmiri chillies (in the form of a dry powder), ginger (also powdered), garlic, onions or asafoetida , gravy is mainly Kashmiri spices and mustard oil based. The Persian and central Asian influence is evident in the large quantities of saffron, and asafoetida, favourite Persian flavourings, and the Mughals cultivated these plants in the subcontinent to provide their cooks with a ready supply. Kashmiri Muslims use praan (a type of shallot), plus garlic and cockscomb flower for colouring. Columnist Vir Sanghvi has nominated it as world's most famous Indian curry. Kokur roghan josh, fried chicken cooked in cock's comb flower gravy with Kashmiri condiments. Pachi roghan josh, trotter in red gravy. Yakhean, a yoghurt based mutton gravy without turmeric or chilli powder. The dish is primarily flavoured with bay leaves, cloves and cardamom seeds. This is a mild, subtle dish eaten with rice often accompanied with a more spicy side dish. Yakhean came to be known in Kashmir during Akbar's rule. Yoghurt based meat curries were part of Persian cuisine, and the emperor introduced this style of cooking to his new state when he annexed it in 1586.

Chuste, spicy dry curry of goat's intestines. Naihkala ta phendeir yakhean, certain parts of innards of sheep or goat, cooked with curd. Bokavachi chhagael, kidneys and testes of goat or sheep. Kalle maaz, goat's head meat. Pachi ta heri rass, cooked legs with hoofs, and head of sheep or goat. Traditionally, the lamb is mashed with walnut wood: minced mutton balls with spices in yogurt gravy. Also known as 'The Dish of Kings' in Kashmir region and the last dish of the banquet. Jawaharlal Nehru once named it 'the cashmere of meats'. Legendary Bollywood actor Yusuf Khan aka Dilip Kumar was said to love goshtabeh the most. In December 1955, Bakshi Ghulam Mohammad, the then Prime Minister of Jammu and Kashmir and Nikita S. Khurschev, the first secretary of the Soviet Communist party were captured in an iconic photograph feeding each other goshtabeh. Beef riste. Pulverised beef with 25 percent fat is pounded into a pulpy mass and seasoned before being shaped into meatballs. It is then immersed in a seasoned hot water bath, before being placed in a bubbling hot broth of well churned yoghurt, laced with milk and some beef stock and cooked to a semi thick consistency.

Kashmir produces tons of vegetables and forest produce. The traditional dishes are:
Dum olav/Dum aloo, potato cooked with ginger powder, fennel and other hot spices. The most skillful part is to prick potatoes after frying them so that the gravy or the sauce gets absorbed in the potato, making them spongy and enhancing the flavour profile of the multiple potato folds. Wazel aelwa, forgotten aloo recipe mostly cooked in the villages. Matar olav, potatoes peas curry. A classic side dish that is regularly paired with white rice (batta). Olav dude legit, potatoes in yoghurt. Gande te matar, onions and peas. Gande te hemb, green beans and onions gravy. Boda razmaah ta olav, green beans and potatoes. Razmah hemb ta nadir, spicy French beans with lotus stems. Razmah hemb ta vangan, French beans with aubergine. Band gupi ta tamatar, cabbage cooked with tomatoes. Nadir palak, lotus roots and spinach. This is a side dish served in big feasts and dinners. In olden days, it was baked in daans (clay ovens). Bam chunth nadir, quince with lotus stem. Dued vangan, eggplants with yoghurt. Karel ta vangun, Kashmiri karela baingan (bitter gourd and eggplants). Al lanej ta vangan, pumpkin greens with aubergine. Tsounth vangan, green apple curry. Apples and aubergines, both are sliced long and fried. The oil is tempered with asafoetida (yangu) and the usual spices. Gande dued, fried onions mixed with milk. Hoch haand, dried dandelion greens, boiled and ground to a pasty texture. Ruwangun hachi, dried tomatoes. Monje Haakh, kholrabi being a delicacy. Dum Monje, knol khol (karam/gaanth gobhi/kohlrabi/ German turnip) in Yoghurt. Dum Phul Gupi, cauliflowers cooked in their own moisture. Haakh, wosteh haakh (red orach), heanz haakh, sotchal (mallow), kretch (knapweed), haand (dandelion), obuj (sorrel), lissa (amaranth), among others. Collard greens is enjoyed by Kashmiri people and they have their own versions of cooking the same with cottage cheese, mutton or chicken. Nunnar, purslane. Bhat haakh, also known as Sabz Haakh. Bhat is Kashmiri for Pandit. Haakh is eaten by everyone in Kashmir, but is a Kashmiri Pandit specialty. Dagith haakh, mashed collard greens. Gogjee haakh, turnip greens with a pinch of asafoetida. The hardy leafy green, thrives in winter conditions and becomes a crucial ingredient in the local cuisine. By using mustard oil, cumin seeds, and a medley of aromatic spices, the dish infuses the flavors of its distinctive blend. Wosteh haakh ta zombre thool, orach paired with hard boiled eggs. Haakh nadir, collards or kales cooked with lotus roots. Haakh vangan, collard greens with brinjal. Sotchal nadur, mallow (Malva Parviflora) is a wild vegetable found anywhere on the roadsides, parks, playgrounds, grazing lands, etc. The earliest account of this plant appears to have been written by a Greek author named Pedamus Dioscorides in the first century AD. The dish is liked by all, young and old particularly because of its limited availability in foreign markets. The dish is made from sotchal and thool vangan. Thool Vangan is a small eggplant that has not grown into its full size. It is soft and fleshy with a minimal amount of seeds. Mujje patar ta vangan, radish leaves with aubergine. Olav bum, a delicious dry dish prepared with potatoes and water lily plant commonly found in ponds and lakes of Kashmir. Bandh roghan josh, cabbage simmered in a fusion of authentic spices, and yoghurt to create the signature vegetarian 'sibling' of Roghan Josh. Nadir roghan josh, lotus root cooked on low heat until the nadur is tender. Cshte gogjee, turnips. Cshte mujji, boiled and mildly spiced radishes. Choek mujji/mujji kalaa, long radishes with tamarind paste. Choek al, gourd with tamarind. Vangan yakhean, fried aubergine in yoghurt. Pudna al, pumpkin with mint. Torreil ta vangan, ridged gourd with eggplant. This dish is a Punjabi preparation but very much enjoyed by Kashmiris. Kanaguchhi yakhean, morels cooked in rich yoghurt gravy. Kanaguchhi matar masala, an absolute flavour bomb of delicious morels picked by locals. Guchhi Ver, kanaguchhi (Morchella esculenta) mushroom with traditional Kashmiri spice mix, an uncommon dish cooked by Suman Kaul, a self trained masterchef. Shajkaan, aka Kanpapar (Geopora Arenicola) mushroom, fried with onions and tomatoes, or even prepared with milk.

Paneer is called tschaman in Kashmiri. The spicing falls into the sweet savoury spectrum which means using a lot of cinnamon, mace and clove alongside earthier spices like cumin seed and ground coriander. Lyader Tschaman. lyadur means yellow which is due to the presence of turmeric, and tschaman is cottage cheese. The term 'yellow gravy' might not do justice to the complexity of flavor you get from layering nine spices, some of them whole, with green chilies and simmering them in water before thickening the sauce with milk. British Indian chef Romy Gill called it 'a bowl of golden yellow deliciousness'. Torreil Ta Tschaman, ridged gourd with paneer. Gogjee aare Ta Tschaman, dried turnips with cottage cheese. they add real colour to the dishes. The varieties of spicy spreads are:

Zamut Dodh, plain homemade yoghurt. Doon muj chetein, walnut radish raita. Zeresht Chetein, Barberry. Zirish Chetein. Blackcurrants. Aelchi Chetein, sour cherries with a bit of salt. Gordoul Chetein, sour plum chutney. Pudna Chetein/Buran, a light chutney made out of green chillies and fresh mint. Ruwangun Haech Chetein, sun dried tomato chutney. Rohani Chetin, garlic chutney with red chilies. Kishmish Chetein, condimented sauce of raisins. Chounth Ta Danival Chetein, apple and coriander chutney. Aloo Bukhar Chetein, made with fresh plums, onions, sugar, lime juice and spices. Muj Chetein (variation), sautéed grated radish in mustard oil. Buzith Nadir Chetein, roasted lotus stem chutney. Buza/Foata Vangan, roasted/boiled and mashed brinjals mixed with curd.

In certain rural areas, the tradition of putting an egg or two in kanger (fire pot) is known to each individual. The fragrance of an egg cooking in the kanger would trigger the enzymes signaling the egg is ready:
Haak Ta Thool, collard greens and Eggs together. Prezdar Ta Thool, Foxtail lilies with eggs, eaten locally in Kupwara. Wosteh Haakh Ta Thool, red spinach with eggs. Zombre Thool Ta Dal, a Kashmiri traditional dish of red lentils (masoor) and hard boiled eggs. Thool Zambur, Kashmiri egg curry. Gogjee aare Ta Zombre Thool, dried turnip and boiled egg. Zombre Thool Ta Ruwangan Hachi, fried eggs in a tomato reduction with ginger, garlic and green chillies. Thool Ta Obuj, kashmiri obuj, a wild growing plant with a sour taste, with eggs. Hunted game (shikaar) is not generally cooked immediately. It has to be hung for some days (faisander) before dressing it for cooking. Hanging makes the meat suppler and less fibrous, making it tastier to eat. It is the largest wild goat in the world. It is locally regarded as the tastiest wild meat. Indian wild boar was introduced in the Himalayan region by Maharaja Gulab Singh, a Dogra military general. Its meat was a great delicacy for the Dogras and Sikhs, but after 1947 its population started dwindling in the Muslim majority region. It is deep fried and cooked with hot spices. This combination of tender duck meat with the earthy sweetness of turnips reflects the region's culinary prowess, emblematic in the sublime slow cooked method known as dum''''. It is winter comfort food in Kashmir.

Makai Waet, roasted corn. Buzith Gaer, roasted water chestnuts. Excursionists sit around a hot roasted small heap of nuts and with the help of two stones, one big and the other small, pound these one by one and extract the kernels. Olav Mond/Monjivor, potato patty with ginger. Doel Chetin, chutney in an earthen pot with different vegetables cabbage, onion, mint, etc. Matar, Kashmiri street food. Chunth Pakori, crisp slices of batter coated and fried green apple. Olav Churma, fries. Gand ta Palak Pakori, onions and spinach dipped in spiced batter and then deep fried. Kruhun Masale/Dub Maha, a poor man's shawarma, a thin lavas is made of refined flour in which boiled chickpeas are rolled and then dipped in tomato chutney. Razmah Masale, rajma with corn. Masale Tschot, chickpea masala spread over a lavas (kashmiri naan). The preparation for making masaal begins during the night or early hours of the morning. Then different kinds of chutneys or sauces are prepared. Tobruk Halweh Parothe, deep fried poori with halwa. Maesh Crari., described as the mozzarella of Kashmir. The discs are first coated with chilli, turmeric and salt, and then fried in mustard oil until they form a crisp, golden outer layer and the inside stays soft and creamy. Kudan, a rare Gujjar goat cheese that looks like paneer but is more crumbly and akin to feta. Kudan is prepared in Bakerwal tents by heating some mustard oil in a pot on fire and then mixing some salt, turmeric and chilli along with the kudan cheese curds. Common sweetmeats are:
Halwa, sweetmeat originally made of honey, camel's milk, cashew nuts, and many other ingredients and brought from the Persian Gulf, via Bombay, in saucers to United India in the nineteenth century. Halwa tradition reached Kashmir towards the end of the nineteenth century. Chounth Halwa. Barfi, a milk based sweet dish. Khatai, a Kashmiri sweet biscuit that crumbles on each bite. Kong Phirin, saffron flavoured rice pudding garnished with nuts. Kofta Khumani, mince apricots. Roth, something between a cake and a bread, these sweet rotis made with flour, ghee, yoghurt, poppy seeds, eggs (on special occasions) and sugar are a domestic favourite. The art of baking a perfect roth is as much an acquired skill as it is a relearned discipline passed down from generations. Tosha, an age old Kashmiri dessert. Nabad, sugar crystallized in an earthen pot or a copper container like Naat and then carved out as a solid sugar ball in a semi round shape, bigger than a football. Gulkand, indigenous rose (koshur gulaab) preserved in a sugar base. Non Kashmiri roses are not used in this formulation. In place of sugar, honey can also be mixed with rose petals. Matka Kulfi, kulfi topped with cold noodles. Kesar Kulfi. Dry Fruit Kulfi. He quickly picked up the art of baking, and started a small bakery, the first by a Kashmiri at that time. Walnut Macaroons. Walnut Tart, made possible by the easy availability of walnut kernels in Kashmir.

The Kashmir Valley is noted for its bakery tradition, that of the qandarwan. Nowhere else in the Indian subcontinent can be found such a huge variety of leavened breads, another pointer to the Central Asian influence on Kashmiris' food habits. A local bagel of about three inches diameter and six inches circumference, the upper half is soft and the lower crust is crispy. It is offered in both sweet and flavorful versions. It is typically consumed hot during breakfast. Lavasa, thin unleavened flat bread, white in colour, made of maida (finely milled wheat flour).

Kashmiris are heavy tea drinkers. Kashmiris don't use the word "Kashmiri Chai". The word "Noon" in Kashmiri means salt. The most popular drink is a pinkish colored salted tea called "noon chai." It is made with black tea, milk, salt and bicarbonate of soda. The particular color of the tea is a result of its unique method of preparation and the addition of soda. The Kashmiri Hindus more commonly refer to this chai as "Sheer Chai." The Kashmiri Muslims refer to it as "Noon Chai" or "Namkeen Chai", both meaning salty tea. Noon Chai or Sheer Chai is a common breakfast tea in Kashmiri households and is taken with breads like baqerkhani brought fresh from Qandur (Kashmiri : کاندر ) or bakers. It is one of the most basic and essential food items in a Kashmiri household. Tea was as served in large samavars. Now, the use of Samavars is limited to special occasions and normally kettles are used. Nuts like almonds and pistachios and edible rose petals can also be added before serving and sometimes malai or fresh cream is added to give the tea viscosity and richness.

According to a 2022 study by the University of Kashmir, 87% of springs in Kashmir valley have excellent to good water quality. A large part of the society, particularly those living in rural and backward areas, depends on spring water.

The Babribyol sharbat is a concoction of sweetened milk, rose water or Rooh Afza syrup, and soaked sweet basil seeds that are grown locally.

Made from yoghurt or kefir, Kashmiri lassi (lyaess) is a liquid, salty way to drink up yoghurt. The process of churning the buttermilk with a wooden choomph or churner is rhythmic and there is an art involved.

Made by extracting the juice of different berries, it is prepared at home during Ramadan. It features in 1977 Kashmiri film Arnimaal where guests are sipping on the beverage during wedding festivities. The Loire Valley wine Sancerre goes well with Kashmiri goshtabeh. A ripe fruity red works well with the full bodied roghan josh. A recommended wine to try with is Montepulciano.

While on fast, Muslims avoid consuming food during the day, while at dusk, they indulge in extra special, bountiful meals prepared during the day. The menu for Ramadan month includes khajur ka laddoo (date balls), babribyol (basil seeds), kulfi, phirin, seemni, fruit chaat, fruit custard, kateer (a drink loaded with health benefits) and noon chai. As the festival draws to a close, most well to do families start placing orders with the wazas for the feast, which is cooked by chefs at their own places and then sold to the customers for serving at their homes. Sacrificial animals include Delhi Walla, Merino Cross, Bakerwal and Kashmiri varieties of sheep.

Only vegetarian food is supplied to devotees. Majority of people in Batmaloo and adjoining areas turn vegetarian and do not eat meat or chicken.

The people of Pampore cook dried vegetables, eggs, cheese and other food stuff except meat and invite their relatives, friends on lunch or dinner to keep the tradition of the saint alive.

In Khanyar and Sarai Bala areas of Srinagar, the devotees are seen outside the shrines where local and non local business establishments install their carts and are seen selling the Kashmiri traditional food stuff. Pious men sing hearty hymns over offerings of dates and sweets.

People in Anantnag district in southern Kashmir quit eating meat as a mark of respect for the 16th century mystic. Rarely is a butcher shop open during these seven days.

For Kashmiri Pandits, the prasad offering at Shivratri puja is a charger piled high with rice, cooked lamb and fish, and a luscious raw fish in its entirety atop the pile.

On the 9th day of the month of ashad, Pandits in Kashmir offer the deity Sharika yellow rice cooked with turmeric, a little oil and salt along with tsarvan (goat's liver).

The festival of Navreh (Nowruz) is incomplete without nadur. A celebration unknown to most of India, Navreh is the welcoming of spring in the Northern hemisphere, and the valley celebrates this on the 21st day of March. Popular momo (beef dumplings) shops and Tibetan restaurants are run by their children. A large number of Indian tourists depend entirely on Vaishno Dhabas, the Valley's generic non A/C restaurants that serve all vegetarian North Indian fare.

The stalks of dandelion (haand) with their spiky edged leaves have to blanched four times so that they bear no bitterness.

The traditional Kashmir food receives heat on two sides, top and bottom and the best results are obtained by slow heat using charcoal. It is very important to ensure that the haakh stays submerged underwater during the initial cooking process using a wooden spatula or large spoon to continuously push the greens down. Fried too little, and the dish will be lifeless, without fragrance.

The yoghurt must be fatty, thick.

Smoking mustard oil is a treatment known as durust, and gets it ready to use after cooling off. Dum cooking was made popular by the Mughal courts around the 16th century.

Goshtabeh and rista, the two meatball dishes are rarely found outside the valley because their unique texture is enormously challenging.

The quality of pots is important, according to wosta (ustad) or chef Nazir Ahmed Aram. He says they must have the right content of copper. Using wood (walnut and apple are the best) is important too. Cooking on gas is not the same.

Much like Kashmir, its people, and its narrative traditions, Kashmiri cuisine too is an amalgam of influences from Central Asia, Persia, China, and the Indian subcontinent. Food recipes passed down from one culture to another are:

Aab Gosh (Kashmiri). Abgoosht or Abgusht is more so a one pot Persian comfort food that is a rustic dish with wholesome ingredients. It has been enjoyed by Persians for centuries. Batta (Kashmiri). Short grain, sticky rice is called bata in Afghanistan. Harisa (Kashmiri). Al Harees is a traditional Emirati dish consisting of wheat, meat(chicken) and salt. A simple, traditional Saudi dish using crushed wheat is called jareesh. Harissa, also known as herisseh, harisa or keshkeg in Armenia is a wheat berry and meat porridge. The wheat, usually known as korkot, is shelled making them quicker to cook. Boko Boko Harees in Burundian cuisine is a delicacy prepared with chicken, turmeric and bulgur wheat. Amritsari Hareesa is a famous dish of the winter season in Lahore, Pakistan and made with wheat and meat. It is seasoned with desi ghee and served with hot naan. A likely East Semitic root means to burn, to char or to roast. Ibn Battuta, the famous Moroccan traveller mentioned that kebab was an integral part of the daily diet of Indian royalty as early as 1200 AD. Some of the world's best and most flavorful kebabs such as Adana Kebab, Urfa kebab, Iskender kebab come from Turkey's southeastern provinces. The Döner kebab was invented by İskender Efendi, who lived in Bursa and hung meats vertically to grill. The traditional method of cooking Afghan chapli kebab is frying. Kahwah (Kashmiri). A staple Afghan tea, kahwah is mild and fragrant, and recipes tend to differ from family to family. Katlam (Kashmiri). Qatlama in traditional Turkish means folded which comes from the verb qatlamaq (to fold). Plain katmer is eaten with Turkish white cheese and Turkish tea. In Turkmenistan, a type of bread in baked from flour which is mixed with milk and egg. This is called katlama. It is also cooked in Azerbaijan, and various herbs are added to it. The fried Kazakh bread Kattama is very popular in Central Asia. Katama is an onion filled swirled flatbread from Kyrgyzstan. In Uzbekistan, katlama is a traditional bread of Sunday mornings served with homemade butter. Qatlama is an Afghan fried sweet pastry topped with sugar or sugar syrups. Qator Gambir or Gambir are Mongolian pancakes which may often be a byproduct, when there is leftover dough from making some other dish. Kutluma is a layered Pakistani flatbread with a crispy, buttery texture. Kulcha (Kashmiri). In Afghanistan and Northeast Iran, these dried bread biscuits are called kulcha e khataye. Koloocheh in Iranian cuisine is a cookie stuffed with cinnamon, sugar and crushed walnuts. Lavasa (Kashmiri). The word lavash is repeatedly found in early Turkic written sources. Lavash is a Turkish bread made with flour, water and salt. It can be eaten hot or cold. In Azerbaijan, lavash is baked not only in traditional ovens (tandir) but also in saj, a large convex pan under which fire is made. Nabad (Kashmiri). Nabat in Persian is a type of confectionary mineral composed of relatively large sugar crystals, with bits of saffron in it. Nadur (Kashmiri). In Afghan cuisine, Qormah e Nadroo is an onion and tomato based stew using lamb meat or veal, yogurt, lotus roots and coriander. Polav (Kashmiri). It looks as if pilaf was invented in Iran some time after the 10th century. The Turks call plain rice sade pilav. Yakhein (Kashmiri). Patates Yahni or Greek potato stew is a traditional Greek recipe which falls under the category of ladera, meaning dishes prepared only with olive oil with no addition of other fat. Turkish Yahni is a beef stew that is great in cold weather. A 19th century cookbook by Mehmet Kamil listed a total of 14 classic yakhnis. Yakhni nokhod is a traditional Shirazi dish that uses meat, peas, potatoes, onions, salt and turmeric. Dam Olav (Kashmiri). Bengali alur dom is lightly spiced and slightly sweet potato curry made with onions, tomatoes and spices.

Kashmiris are gregarious and like to share. 'One who eats properly shall rule the country' it is said. An interesting wedding tradition from Kashmir involves newlyweds making roti together. While the bride flattens the dough and puts it on the griddle, the groom is responsible for flipping it and making sure it is cooked. Kashmiris are very particular about the taste of dishes. When filmmaker Vivek Agnihotri wrote a presumptuous tweet proposing the idea of vegetarian wazwan, social media erupted in spontaneous protest. In Kashmir, it is said that food should both taste and look good. Delicacies are passed on to neighbours to be relished and there is no shame in asking for something when the nostrils are tickled and tempted by the mouth watering smells from a neighbour's kitchen. Food related idioms include:

Adyav kheyiv chinih adyav kheyiv taki — half the people ate from large dishes, and half from small dishes. A badly arranged dinner. Pride dwells in everyone, whether he be rich or poor. Toak was an earthen plate, in general use in Kashmir in the past. Beggars and some uninvited people pushed themselves in among the guests because of their poverty, or their desire for tasting the delicacies. It is applied where a person is not content with what is willingly offered to him, and demands more. Apih hund gyav — a foolish woman's ghee. A foppish person. The ancestors of the Hindus would not eat garlic because of their aphrodisiac effects, having devoted themselves to religion. Chaanis haakhas chha paakuk haajat — does your haakh require hard cooking? A sort of ironic flattery with the sense that your haakh is so delicate, it takes hardly any time to cook. Chaantis animu mathun — to grease one's mouth with gruel. To cover up starvation for mere shame. Chayi tani ya gani magar tech gachi cheyn — tea, whether weak or strong, should be taken hot. Hardas gurus metras, sontah gurus shetras — autumn butter milk for the friend, and spring butter milk for the enemy. Consequently, the milk is better in the autumn. Hari tang tah zulahnai, muhuri tsont tah zulit — if the pear cost only a cowrie it should not be peeled, but if the apple cost a sovereign it should be peeled. Natives of Kashmir seldom skin a pear, but always skin an apple. Apple skin, they say, is not easily digested. Haruch gugaj tah Laruch gunas chhih barabar — a June turnip and a Lar serpent are equal. A native would not eat June turnip on any account, while Gunas is a round headed serpent met with principally in Lar parganah, whose bite is generally fatal. Majji bhatee — food served by mother is the best food. Talwe peyi na tangah — wishing a pear falls from ceiling is a vain hope. With time, this tradition became popular, and men soon began travelling with the remaining mutton on their traem (wazwan copper dish). In Kashmir, a now abandoned practice would use green Chinar leaves in packaging delicate things like mulberry, butter, mutton and cheese. This would help these easily contaminable items to stay nontoxic till consumption.