Трефриу: Уэльс ауылы мен тарихы

Trefriw is a village and community in Conwy County Borough, Wales. It lies on the river Crafnant a few miles south of the site of the Roman fort of Canovium, sited at Caerhun. At the last three censuses, the population of the community has been recorded as 842 in 1999, 915 in 2001, and 783 in 2011 (from a total of 368 households). Trefriw lies on the edge of Snowdonia, on the B5106 road to the north west of Llanrwst, and about 4½ miles north of Betws y Coed by road. It is located on the western slopes of the glaciated Conwy valley, below the ridge of Cefn Cyfarwydd, the village having been largely built in a semicircle at the point where the river Crafnant flows from its hanging valley to join the river Conwy. The river Crafnant still provides power for the woollen mill, and in the past provided power for a number of other industries based along its banks, such as a forge which provided quarry tools. The community includes the hamlet of Llanrhychwyn. Most of the village lies within the Snowdonia National Park, the boundary running down the main street of the village. Apart from its reputation as a good starting point for walks (the village has Walkers are Welcome status and stages an annual walking festival), Trefriw is today mostly known for its woollen mill, and for the nearby chalybeate spa, first known to have been used by the Romans and further developed in about 1700. Its waters were one of very few throughout Europe to have been classified as a medicine due to their high iron content.

A major Roman road (Sarn Helen) ran southwards through Trefriw from the fort at Caerhun (between Trefriw and Conwy) to the fort at Tomen y mur (near Trawsfynydd), and beyond, ultimately reaching Moridunum at Carmarthen. It is likely that there were in fact two roads passing through the Trefriw area, a valley route, and a higher mountain route which went on to link to the smaller forts at Caer Llugwy (near Capel Curig) and Pen y Gwryd, near Snowdon. The actual lines of these roads through Trefriw can only be conjecture today, but the whole route is discussed in depth in the book Sarn Helen by J. Cantrell & A. Rylance (Cicerone Press, 1992).

Llywelyn Fawr (Llywelyn the Great), Prince of Gwynedd, chose Trefriw as the site for a hunting lodge in the 12th century. (Gwynedd was far larger, and included this area at the time.) Given that he had a number of strongholds in north west Wales, it is not possible to know how much time he spent in the village, although it is reported that he preferred his lodge at Trefriw to his Palace at Aber. There are no remains to be seen today but it is now believed that it was on the site of the Ebenezer Chapel on the main hill. Llywelyn married Siwan or Joan, the youngest daughter of King John of England in 1204 or 1205, when she was only about 13. Despite her relative youth, she in time grew weary of the trek up the steep hill to the church at Llanrhychwyn (regarded by many as being the oldest in Wales), and as a result, in about 1230 Llywelyn endowed a church on the site where St Mary's, Trefriw now stands. Llanrhychwyn (which takes its name from Rhochwyn, son of Helig ap Glannog) is now a small hamlet. In Llywelyn's time, however, and up to the early 19th century, it was larger than Trefriw itself, which consisted of "a few houses here and there". In Hanes Trefriw, Morris Jones writes in Welsh that Llywelyn "built a church for [his wife's] use, and for the use of the inhabitants, for their kindness towards him, and that he donated a number of farms from the parish of Llanrhychwyn, naming them as the parish of Tref Rhiw Las. It got this name from the slope on which it stood". At the lower (northern) end of the village is located "Ffrwd Gwenwyn y Meirch" ("poison the horses stream"). It is said that the stream was poisoned by a traitor, resulting in the deaths of many of Llywelyn's soldiers' horses, at a time when he was at war with the English. The Red Book of Hergest (1375–1425) refers to "Kymwt Treffryw", the Commote (Cwmwd in Welsh) of Trefriw. This is possibly the earliest written reference to the village.

It seems probable that Trefriw has links with the Gunpowder Plot of 1605. Thomas Wiliems, who was probably born in the village, and a nephew of Sir John Wynn of Gwydir, went to Brasenose College, Oxford, and returned to work as a physician. He was an authority on vegetarianism, and also published a Welsh/Latin dictionary. In 1573 he became Curate of Trefriw. He is reputed to have been a papist (he was certainly charged on that score at Bangor in 1607) and as such would probably have known of the plot to blow up Parliament. According to some sources it was he who, in warning his relative John Wynn not to go to the State Opening, was responsible to either a smaller or greater extent for the suspicions which ultimately caught Guy Fawkes. This story is the basis for a short historical novel written for children by Gweneth Lilly, entitled Treason at Trefriw (Gomer Press, 1993).

In 1817 a free school was founded (and subsequently financially supported) in Trefriw by Lord Willoughby de Eresby, for the benefit of poor children of the village, and those from the adjoining parishes. The earliest mill (a pandy or fulling mill) dates back to the 15th century. In 1820 a new pandy was built, this still carrying the faded name "Vale of Conwy Woollen Mill". By early in the 19th century the village had a water powered fulling mill (replacing the former cottage industry which dated back centuries), but serious development of the industry began only after it was bought by Thomas Williams in 1859. The current woollen mill is still owned by the descendants of Thomas Williams. The current roadside mill building, sited below the original buildings, was built in the 1970s. David Cox Jnr. (1809–85) painted Trefriw near Llanrwst, with mill. Following the construction of the Llanrwst to Conwy Toll Road in 1777, a toll house, Hen Dyrpeg, was built south of Trefriw, but this stood some 70m from the road on elevated ground, to avoid flooding. Following a fair degree of toll evasion, and the fact that traffic from the Gwydir Forest did not pass it, a replacement toll house, 'Gwydir Gate', was built in the 1820s nearer the village. These toll houses were passed by traffic heading for the quay at Trefriw. In the 19th century Trefriw was Wales' largest inland port, the river Conwy being tidal almost up to neighbouring Llanrwst. Given the fact that, at one time, Llanrwst was one of the ten largest towns in Wales, it can be seen that the Conwy Valley had great historical significance. It was reported in 1833 that fairs were held annually on 12 May, 3 September and 7 November. The parish of Trefriw was owned for a long period by the Gwydir Estate (although under continuous mortgage), but in 1895–96 most of Llanrhychwyn and Trefriw were sold off by the ruling Barons Willoughby de Eresby and the Earls of Ancaster.

At the start of the 19th century, boats of around 5 tons could only reach Trefriw quay at or near high tides. It is not known when the first quay was built, but a storehouse existed there in 1754. The quay, which belonged to the Gwydir Estate and was ruled by a resident harbourmaster, was later extended (the present structure dates from about 1811–12), and became of great significance to Trefriw, its growth, and subsequent history. Subsequent rock blasting in the 19th century downstream at Tal y cafn, and dredging, enabled river boats of 50 tons and seagoing ships of 100 tons to reach Trefriw. The quays were sited opposite the Bellevue Hotel, now the Princes Arms Hotel, and remains can still be seen, best viewed from the walks on 'the Cob'. From the quay was shipped out grain, wool, hide, oak, timber and metals from the mines of the Gwydir Forest. A considerable amount of slate was also shipped, this coming not just from Llnrhychwyn and Crafnant Quarries, but from as far away as Cwm Penmachno, where Penmachno, Rhiwbach and Blaen y Cwm quarries were major suppliers. However, wharfage prices were high at Trefriw (being non Gwydir), and even before the opening of the Rhiwbach Tramway in 1863 (which linked to the Festiniog Railway at Blaenau Ffestiniog) it was decided that it was preferable (though less easy) to cart slate via Cwm Teigl down to the quays on the river Dwyryd, below Maentwrog. As a consequence slate shipments from Trefriw quay fell dramatically. (Between 1818 and 1835 slate had accounted for 70% of Trefriw's total exports; between 1857 and 1877 this fell to 20%.) However, not all the trade from the quay was material heading down river—commodities such as food, wine (ordered by the region's gentry), coal and fertilizers (especially lime) were brought in. Bangor University Archives holds some "Trefriw Port Books", which provide details of vessels, tonnages, masters, origins, destinations, cargoes by weight and fees. Two original manuscript volumes range in date from 3 April 1826 26 December 1835 and 1835–47. In the early 19th century up to 450 vessels traded from the quay, to places such as Liverpool and Dublin. Trade totalled 1,548 tons in 1818, and peaked in 1862 at a total of 16,532 tons, after which the railways contributed to the decline of trade via the quays. In 1854 the main quay acquired a weighing machine and a crane, and there was a small shipyard in the village. Sulphur was also shipped from the Cae Coch Sulphur Mine, prior to the construction of the railway line. The mine is discussed in detail in volume 7 of The Mines of The Gwydir Forest, by John Bennett & Robert W. Vernon (Gwydir Mines Publications, 1997). The other six volumes, whilst dealing with the mines beyond Trefriw itself, are also of interest in that these mines also provided much trade for the ships. There were smaller quays further down the river, with the Gwydir Estate owning Coed Gwydir (for stone) and Cae Coch (sulphur). Below this, other non Gwydir quays were at the Maenan Abbey, Porth Llwyd (Dolgarrog) and Tal y cafn, but Trefriw saw the most trade, by far.

The latter 19th century saw a number of artists living in Trefriw. The art movement, which had started in Betws y coed in the 1850s, popularized by David Cox, saw a movement down the valley following the arrival of the railway in Betws y coed. In 1871 William Barker lived in the village, and the 1881 census recorded another 8 artists living in the village, namely John Davies, Ben Fowler, Robert Goody, Julius Hare, Henry Hilton, John Johnson, James Morland and Henry Boberts. Although artists continued to live here until after the turn of the century, like Betws y coed it became a victim of its own popularity. The movement therefore again re established itself, this time at Tal y bont and Llanbedr y cennin, where its 40 members included those artists from Trefriw. Here in a building they set up an ‘Artists Club’, and its members were a strong influence on the formation of the Royal Cambrian Academy of Art, which moved into Plas Mawr, Conwy in 1886.

Trefriw boasted a rock cannon, originally sited in the open on the hill overlooking Llanrwst, but today it is surrounded by the forest of Coed Creigiau. Comprising 13 holes, each about 80 cm apart, its use in 1863 was reported in the local paper where it is recorded that "Rock and metal cannons were fired in such profusion that about 8cwt of gunpowder was consumed." This was to celebrate the marriage of Albert Edward, Prince of Wales to Princess Alexandra of Denmark on 10 March 1863. It was also fired in 1872 following the marriage of Peter Lewis, a local timber merchant, to Miss Williams; the Llangollen Advertiser reported that “one of the grandest balls we have ever witnessed” was held at the Belle Vue Hotel, and "the firing of [rock] cannon resounded through the valley like thunder". It is also likely that the Trefriw cannon was the one reported in May 1877 when Lord Avebury visited Gwydir Castle, and "as soon as he approached the Castle, by road, the firing of cannon commenced, and continued for some time".

In 1833 the old Roman mineral water caves (believed to have been discovered by soldiers of the XXth Roman Legion) were excavated in an attempt to attract people to them. In 1863 Lord Willoughby de Eresby built a small bath house, replaced a decade later by the current building. Large numbers of people came, no doubt aided by national advertising, and the declaration by Dr. Hayward, a fashionable medical specialist from Liverpool, that this was "Probably the best spa in the United Kingdom". Baddeley's guidebook notes contains the quote "inconceivably nasty and correspondingly efficaceous". In more recent times clinical trials have proven that the Spa water is a medically effective iron supplement. In 2003, Nelsons purchased the Spa and the rights to the Spatone mineral water produced there. Today Spatone is sold around the world, with all packaging and manufacture on site in Trefriw. For over a century the Spa was open as a tourist attraction, but in 2011 it was closed to the public, and serves today only as a commercial business.

Trefriw's population was 1,229 at the 2011 Census. According to the 2021 Census, its population was 1,237.

According to the United Kingdom Census 2021, 42.6 per cent of all usual residents aged 3+ in Trefriw can speak Welsh. 57.5 per cent of the population noted that they could speak, read, write or understand Welsh. The 2011 census noted 45.6 per cent of all usual residents aged 3 years and older in the village could speak Welsh. The 2011 census also noted that 70.2 per cent of all usual residents aged 3+ who were born in Wales could speak Welsh.

According to the 2011 Census, 48.3 per cent of the population noted that they had Welsh only national identity. According to the 2022 Census, 46.0 per cent of the population noted that they had Welsh only national identity.

The 2011 Census noted that 97.9 per cent of the population was born in the United Kingdom. 59.6 per cent of the population was born in Wales and 36.9 per cent of the population born in England.

In 2021, 97.7% of Trefriw's population identified their ethnic group within the high level "White" category.

The village of Trefriw forms part of the Betws y coed and Trefriw electoral ward and is currently represented in Conwy Council by Plaid Cymru councillor Elizabeth Roberts. The village also has a Community Council, currently chaired by councillor Kim Ellis.

The Princes Arms Hotel started life as the Belle Vue Hotel, which was built about 1846. Run in its early days by James Long, in its heyday it was run by the Dutton family (in conjunction with the Castle Hotel, Conwy). Trade was very brisk in the era of the steamers, and many passengers called in for a meal, where David Francis, the blind harpist, often played. In 1968 the Hotel became the Prince's Hotel, and thence the Prince's Arms Hotel. In 1930 The Belle View Spa rooms were opened, so that tourists could sample the Spa waters in the village itself, the Spa being a mile to the north. The Old Ship public house (Yr Hen Long) recalls the village's trading history. The Fairy Falls public house was originally named the Geirionnydd Vaults, becoming the Geirionnydd Hotel around the turn of the 20th century. The erection of the adjacent motel style lodge increased accommodation considerably. The pub is reputedly haunted by two ghosts, named John Lucas and Lucy, who have been seen by the current landlord. The village once had other public houses—The Union Inn—run by Catherine Owen. This was opposite the present Post Office, and can be distinguished by the blank "window" on the front of the building, which once carried the pub name, which referred to the Llanrwst Union, a union of parishes created under the Poor Law Amendment Act 1834. Today the property is called Maesteg. The Anchor was located on the main street, near the village school.

The oldest existing house in Trefriw is believed to be Hafod Country House, which has been confirmed to be of Medieval origin by Neil Johnstone, an archaeologist employed by Menter Môn. It was built as a hall house, with a solar and a tower which followed a pattern used in the castles of the 13th century Princes of Gwynedd. Due to the numerous changes made over time, the oldest surviving timbers appear to date from a time when the hall had two further floors added. A three floor construction is unprecedented in Welsh rural houses of the time, but is a pattern employed in some Cistercian granges. The Cistercian monks at Maenan had extensive land holdings in the area. The adjoining cottage, Tan y Celyn (Under the Holly), appears to have been built as a gatehouse, around the time of the dissolution of the monasteries. The next oldest house in the village is reputed to be Gwyndy Cottage, parts of which date back to the 16th century. "Tan yr Yw" (Under the Yews) was the home of Dafydd Jones, an 18th century poet and printer (See "Famous inhabitants"). The yews referred to are those in the churchyard opposite, and the house is now a Grade II listed building. Tyddyn Wilym was the home of Gwilym Cowlyd, the bard, born in 1828. Gwilym believed that the house was also the former birthplace of Dr Thomas Wiliems, who allegedly played a part in foiling the Gunpowder Plot. (See "Famous Inhabitants"). "Plas Cae Coch" "(Red Field Hall)" dates from the mid 1800s. In 1841 it was the home of Robert and Elizabeth Hill. The Hill family were the operators of the Cae Coch Sulpher Mine. The mine is situated in the Gwydyr Forest, to the rear of the property. Material from the mine was shipped from a nearby wharf on the River Conwy to the Thompson and Hill Chemical works in Liverpool. (See "History 1.4"). Plas Cae Coch and the Hill family are referred to in Volume 7 of The Mines of The Gwydir Forest, by John Bennett & Robert W. Vernon (Gwydir Mines Publications, 1997). In his book Hanes Trefriw (1879), Morris Jones writes brief chapters on the following properties, which he considers of significance, either historical, or through connection with their inhabitants—(y) Tŷ Newydd, (y) Pandy, (y) Tŷ Isaf, Tan yr Yw, Bryn Pyll, (y) Tŷ Uchaf, Gwiga (the only thatched property), (y) Pandy Uchaf, Bron Derw and Crafnant House. The village school was built in 1842 by Lord Willoughby d'Eresby, who owned land and mines in the nearby Gwydir Forest. Glanrafon stores was built at the end of the 19th century, replacing some former cottages. The top floors once operated as the Glanrafon Private Hotel and Boarding House. The car park opposite the woollen mills, along with the Recreation grounds, were given as a gift to the villagers. This car park is called "The Singrug", derived from "Eisingrug" (eisin + crug meaning heap/pile of husks). This name is far from unique in Wales, and refers to the fact that winnowing must at one time have been undertaken here.

Trefriw today has just two shops: the post office/general store and Maralyn's the butchers/grocers. However, there is the Woollen mill which has a shop selling the goods made on site, and cafe. Trefriw also has Angies hairdressers and Gem's Cafe. However, in its heyday, with up to 1,000 visitors arriving daily, there were naturally many more. These were virtually all located on the main street, and a number of properties can today clearly be seen to have been former shops. Trefriw's most famous shop was perhaps that run by Richard Thomas Ellis. Located in what is currently the Post Office, this emporium sold almost everything, including even dynamite. Ellis also arranged funerals. An advert of 1889 advertised "A splendid assortment of useful presents for visitors". Other shops which have long disappeared include: a post office (by Chandlers yard), a shoe shop (currently the butchers), two butcher's shops (one at Bryn Neuadd, which has also been a craft shop, the other opposite the mill), a cycle shop (lower main street), a bank (the middle shop in Glanrafon parade), a cake shop/bakers (opposite the current Post Office), a cobblers and confectionery shop (where the woollen mill is now), a sweet shop (opposite the school), a craft shop (opposite the Fairy Falls), a chemist, a taxi/garage business (later Chandlers boatyard), Neuadd cafe (next to the village hall), a chip shop (near The Old Ship pub) and a grocers (behind the current Post Office). There was formerly a large abattoir behind the public toilets.

Thomas Wiliems (1545 or 1546–1620?). Referred to above in connection with the Gunpowder Plot. Evan Evans ("Ieuan Glan Geirionydd") was born in Trefriw in 1795, the son of a former shipwright. He was of Nonconformist parentage, and his parents are credited with founding the Calvinistic Methodist movement in the area. He started life as a schoolmaster, but attracted attention by his successes in poetry at various Eisteddfodau, his early imagination being charmed by the picturesque surroundings of his home area. He subsequently decided to move into the church, and was ordained in 1826. He was a hymn writer, but suffered from bad health—possibly a reason why his hymns, most in the form of prayers, are considered rather sad and deep. He held successively the curacies of Christleton and Ince, in Cheshire. Ill health compelled him to leave Ince, and he spent some time in retirement among his beloved hills in Trefriw. When he had partially recovered, he was appointed to the curacy of Rhyl. He died on 21 January 1855, and is buried in the village cemetery. His poetical works were published under the title of Geirionydd. Dafydd Jones (1703–85) was a poet who wrote most of his works between 1750 and 1780. He lived at Tan yr yw in the village, as referred to above, and sometimes wrote under the name of Dewi Fardd. He progressed from publishing his own work to setting up on his own as a printer—some say that this was the first printing press in Wales. Some sources refer to Dafydd Jones as the Anglicised form "David Jones". The first Welsh language publication of a purely political nature was a translation by him of a pamphlet on the American dispute. Gwilym Cowlyd, a native of Trefriw, was one of the most colourful figures in Welsh culture, and one who was very fond of the Cerdd Dant Festival. William John Roberts (1828–1904) was his real name, and the one he used in his day job as a printer and bookseller. However, he had a bee in his bonnet when it came to the National Eisteddfod and he would assume the bardic name of Gwilym Cowlyd when levelling severe criticism at the Gorsedd for being too Anglicised. Eventually, in 1865, he founded a separate festival to rival the big National Eisteddfod. He called it Arwest Glan Geirionydd ("Music Festival on the Banks of the Lake Geirionydd"), and the meeting point was the Taliesin Memorial which now overlooks the lake. Mary Owen was born in Trefriw in 1803, and lived to the age of 108. She moved away to live at Fron Olew, Mynydd Llwydiarth, Pentraeth, overlooking Red Wharf Bay on Anglesey. By May 1911 she broke the record to become the oldest person to live in Wales, indeed in Britain. She died in 1911 and was buried in the graveyard at Pentraeth. In 1831 James Hughes was born in the village, and lived at Ysgubor Gerrig. Proficient on the harp, violin and flute, he became a harp maker of renown. He died in Manchester in 1878 and is buried in the village churchyard. T. R. Williams y Ffatri was famous throughout the land as a festival conductor. He composed tunes and anthems, and four of them are in the Independent Hymnbook. He was organist in the Ebenezer Church and a deacon for 15 years. He died in 1922 and there is a stained glass window there to commemorate him. William Jones, poet, was born in Trefriw in 1896, living at Tan y Coed. The son of the Congregational minister in the village, he studied at the University College of North Wales and became a Congregational minister himself before changing denomination and joining the Calvinistic Methodists. He lived and worked in Tremadog. He published two collections of poetry, Adar Rhiannon a Cherddi Eraill in 1947 and Sonedau a Thelynegion in 1950. As a poet and a person, he has been compared to R. Williams Parry, who was a great friend of his. He died in 1961. Dafydd Parri, author of the Welsh children's series Cyfres y Llewod, lived at Plas Gwyn in Trefriw. His children, who include Eisteddfod winning poet Myrddin ap Dafydd and broadcaster/journalist Iolo ap Dafydd also grew up in the village. Kate Roberts, the author, was first cousin to Hugh Griffith Roberts, who lived at Ffynnon Bach in Trefriw. Richard Owen Roberts, the father of Gwilym Roberts the story teller, was born in Llanrhychwyn. Dylan Cernyw, Welsh harpist and three time Eisteddfod winner (1989, 1991 & 1994), was a former tenant of the Fairy Falls pub. Although not a resident, Alfred Bestall, author and illustrator of the Rupert Bear stories, holidayed in Trefriw in 1912 and 1913. It was at this time that he first visited Beddgelert, where he subsequently bought a house, and which provided much of the inspiration for his illustrations. Allan Barham is a former radio and television reporter, working with BBC Wales and the BBC World Service for 32 years. He lived at Winfield from 1958 to 1997 and for 10 years was chairman of the Trefriw and Llanrhychwyn community council. Perhaps best known among his books was Tales Of The Old Waterloo, which was serialised by the BBC.