Оксфордская академическая мантия: история и современность.

The University of Oxford has a long tradition of academic dress, which continues to the present day.

After the names of the components, the Groves classification system is given.

The gowns in use in Oxford can be divided into two basic shapes. All gowns are open fronted, except for the Doctors' convocation habit which is closed at the front.

Hoods in Oxford are of three shapes. Doctors (except Doctors of Clinical Psychology and Doctors of Engineering) and Bachelors of Divinity wear hoods in the Oxford full shape [f5], scarlet in the case of doctors and black in the case of Bachelors of Divinity. All other hoods can be either in the Burgon shape [s2] or the Oxford simple shape [s1], though some are traditionally made in one shape or the other. Most of the newer degrees use the Burgon whilst older degrees use either, although the Burgon shape is becoming more popular. Generally, hoods are worn by graduates whenever subfusc is worn, but sometimes they are worn with an ordinary tie, e. g. by the lecturer at a public lecture.

Men wear a mortarboard (also known as a square or trencher cap) [h1], which is not worn indoors, except by the Chancellor, Vice Chancellor and Proctors. When meeting the Vice Chancellor, Proctors, or other senior official of the university in the street, it is traditional for a man to touch or raise his cap. In practice few people wear their caps nowadays, and instead carry their caps on occasions where caps are required. Women may choose between the mortarboard or the soft cap [h5]. Originally, women were required to wear their soft caps during university ceremonies. From Michaelmas 1995, they were required to wear the soft cap, but permitted either to wear or to carry the mortarboard. From Hilary 2008, they are now, like men, required to carry their mortarboards when at university ceremonies indoors. Women who opt for the soft cap must still wear, and not carry, them indoors. Doctors in the lay faculties (i. e. those except Divinity and Philosophy) wear Tudor bonnets [h2], which are round and made of velvet.

Although gowns and robes have traditionally been made from stuff, Russell cord or (in the case of members of the higher faculties) silk, most modern gowns and robes are made from synthetic material such as polyester. Similarly, hoods and gowns traditionally made out of silk are now more usually made of synthetic "art silk". Rabbit fur is also rarely now used in the making of bachelors' hoods, with artificial fur used instead.

Commoners (i. e. those without a scholarship or exhibition) wear a short black lay type gown which just covers the suit jacket. The gowns have a flap collar and instead of sleeves have two streamers adorned with folds. These are the remnants of closed sleeves, as can still be seen on the laced gowns of the higher faculties. Scholars (and some exhibitioners) wear a black clerical type gown down to the knee. The gowns are gathered at the yoke, and have bell sleeves to the elbows (in effect they are shorter versions of the BA gown). For undergraduates, scholars are likely to be students who received a distinction in their first year examinations, or who have received a scholarship for academic excellence in a specific topic. As a very general approximation, students wearing scholars' gowns may be predicted to achieve a first class degree on completion of their final examinations. Until the abolition of their statuses in the nineteenth century, gentlemen commoners and noblemen commoners each had distinct gowns, generally of coloured silk in the lay shape, decorated with lace.

It is often claimed that undergraduates by custom do not wear their caps (or even that they can be fined for doing so). This is incorrect. Outdoors, caps may be worn, but it is customary to touch or raise one's cap as a salute to senior university or college officers. Like all other male members of the university (including graduates) other than the Chancellor, Vice Chancellor and Proctors, male undergraduates must remove their caps during university ceremonies indoors. It is also only in recent years that female undergraduates have been permitted to remove their mortarboards during university ceremonies. Women who opt for the mortarboard now no longer wear them indoors, but conform with the practice of male members of the university. As mentioned earlier, women who opt for the traditional women's soft cap still do not have this dispensation, and should remain covered at all times. There are instances when male undergraduates are required to wear their mortarboards indoors. Undergraduates appearing before the Proctors' Court are required to present themselves wearing their caps and to salute the Proctors in the customary manner upon entering. They then remove their caps for the remainder of the proceedings.

Graduate students who do not already have an Oxford degree wear a black lay type gown that is a full sized version of the commoner's gown, reaching to the knee. However, they are not worn by graduates of other universities who are reading for the degree of Bachelor of Arts, who wear a commoner's or scholar's gown as appropriate. Nor are they worn by non members of the university reading for diplomas, who wear no gown, even with sub fusc. Alternatively, graduate students may wear the academic dress of their old university except at those occasions where "foreign" academic dress is prohibited, such as the Encaenia and the second half of degree ceremonies when the graduand pays his respects to the Vice Chancellor in the dress of his new Oxford degree.

The chancellor of the university is elected for life by the Convocation (i. e. the alumni with degrees) of the university. He wears on ceremonial occasions a black silk lay type gown with a long train, decorated with gold lace, similar to the gowns of the Lord Chancellor. The chancellor's mortarboard has a gold tassel, like that of the former noblemen commoners. In undress he wears the DCL dress or undress gown. In Oxford he always wears white tie and bands though in the past he wore a 'waterfall cravat' with court dress underneath his robes. In 2015, a new robe was made for the chancellor in light of the original robes being over 100 years old and becoming fragile. This is similar to the new robe of the vice chancellor save that the embroidery is on the facings rather than the sleeves. The rest of the robe has the gimp lace pentagons in the usual places.

Previously vice chancellors had no distinctive dress, but instead wore the black gown, convocation habit and hood if they were doctors or the MA gown and hood if they were not. When John Hood, a non MA from outside the Congregation of the university, was appointed vice chancellor in 2005, a new lay type (undress) gown was designed for him, being black with simple gold trimming on the sleeves and flap collar. An official/dress robe was commissioned in 2006. It is a lay type gown with detachable panels on the lower sleeves of embroidered gold and silver laurel branches growing out of the university shield with the arms of the university's colleges seated on them. The back of the gown has a large university shield similarly trimmed with gold and silver laurel branches.

The two proctors in Oxford are responsible for the discipline of junior members of the university. In addition they have various ceremonial and administrative roles. In Oxford the proctors wear white tie and bands, and a black clerical type gown of the doctors' full dress pattern with sleeves and facings of dark blue velvet (formerly black velvet). A hood fully lined with miniver is worn turned inside out so that only the fur is visible. This was formerly the full dress of the M. A. On both their proctorial and undress M. A. gowns they have a tippet, or small pouch, sewn to bottom left of the yoke; this is kept for life on the MA gown even after their year in office. Each proctor may appoint up to two pro proctors, who may act in their stead throughout their year of office. The pro proctors, when on duty, similarly wear sub fusc, white tie and bands, and their own gown, which is a black clerical type gown of the MA shape, with facings of black velvet and a tippet sewn to the bottom left of the yoke. When performing proctorial roles pro proctors wear the proctors' hood. In both Oxford and Cambridge the proctors could formerly be seen patrolling the streets after dark with the university police, or bulldogs, who wore top hats in Cambridge and bowler hats in Oxford.

Previously the assessor wore an MA gown with a tippet sewn onto the yoke. He or she now wears a proctor's dress gown with purple instead of blue velvet sleeves and facings. A button and tassel is sewn to the bottom right of the yoke of their assessorial and undress M. A. gowns, which, as with the proctors' tippets, is kept for life on the MA gown. The assessor's hood is Burgon or Oxford simple shape made of unlined white corded silk.

The university bedels (or mace bearers) and the university verger wear plain black lay type gowns and Tudor bonnets, and white tie and bands.

Members of the court wear a gown in the shape of doctor's gown that is deep cherry in colour. There is a line of lace that runs across the collar, down the facings in addition to two lines around the sleeves. They wear a bonnet of deep cherry with a short tassel in the same colour.