Швейцарская колбаса Cervelat: история и традиции

Swiss sausage
the musical instrument

Cervelat, also cervelas, servelat or zervelat, is a sausage produced in Switzerland, France (especially Alsace and Lyon), Belgium, Netherlands and parts of Germany. The recipe and preparation of the sausage vary regionally. The sausages are spelled cervelas in the French speaking part of Switzerland, Cervelat in the German speaking part, and servelat in the Italian speaking part. The terms ultimately derive from cerebrum, the Latin word for brain, which was used in early recipes. and is derived from zervelada, a Milanese word meaning a "large, short sausage filled with meat and pork brains." Modern recipes do not include brains, and arose towards the end of the 19th century in Basel, as a reworking of the traditional recipe. In Germany, the sausage is sometimes also called "Lyoner", which comes from its perceived origin. In the federal state of Saarland the "Lyoner" sausage is even considered a regional staple dish. The taste of the sausages depends on the region, but generally they are similar to that of a frankfurter, but with a smokier flavour and a texture brought about by its fat shape and the tightly wrapped natural casing. Various European semi dry cervelat are similar to summer sausage in the U. S., and Thuringian sausage can be considered a type of cervelat. In the United States, the term Thuringer sausage is used for a type of cervelat, rather than Thuringian sausage in the European sense.

In Switzerland, cervelats are cooked (slightly smoked and then boiled) or served "raw" (cold, having been cooked during initial manufacture). They contain a mixture of beef, bacon and pork rind. The modern Swiss variety is packed into zebu intestines. as a result, many Swiss are emotionally attached to the sausage. Processed and packaged varieties sold in Swiss supermarkets also contain nitrites and antioxidants. A cervelat may weigh from about 100 to 200 grams. Swiss cervelats are prepared and eaten cooked or raw. They are boiled, grilled or fried. They can also be served uncooked, either in a salad or with bread and mustard.

Traditionally, Swiss beef intestines were used for the casings, but towards the end of the 20th century, local cattle producers lost interest in cleaning and preparing them, so meat processors switched to Brazilian zebu intestines, which are not fatty and do not easily split open when roasted. The New York Times noted that "the possible demise of cervelas visibly upset the Swiss, a normally even tempered people." The Swiss government entered into negotiations with the EU to seek an exception for zebu intestines, and Swiss scientists were sent to Brazil hoping to show that the intestines posed no risk of transmitting mad cow disease.

Cervelas de Lyon are a sausage specialty of Lyonnaise cuisine. They contain finely minced pork, and either truffles or pistachios. Sold uncooked, the sausage has to be boiled before it is eaten. In Alsatian cuisine, cervelas d'Alsace are split open and served with cheese (gruyère) and bacon.